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| Pure deliciousness |
We decided to stop in Orvieto on the way to Cortona, for lunch. Since it was on the way, and I had wanted to go there for a while because of Marta's wonderful description of this Pecorino pasta dish she had there, it worked out perfectly. Orvieto is only about 130 km from Rome, but already in Umbria, and is surrounded by cliffs high up in the hills. We arrived at Hosteria del Moro and quickly ordered. Behold: Nidi di Pecorino e Miele.
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| Duomo di Orvieto |
After seeing some of the town, we moved on towards our destination and reached Cortona around 5:30, where we just barely found our hotel "Albergo Ristorante Portole", way past the center of town, in the middle of lush forest and perched in front of the most amazing view. We stepped out to admire everything and quickly noticed the fresh breezy air, delighted that we were no longer stifled by the heat of Rome. It was definitely enough to know we would enjoy our weekend away.
As it turns out, the hotel was nice and comfortable; we were greeted with a cold glass of Rose, and the man in charge was helpful in getting us situated...however we couldn't deny the eeriness of the place, we were basically the only ones at the hotel, and the hallways looked straight out of The Shining. The whole time we were all waiting for those twins to appear at the end of the hall near our room. But anyway, we survived. No "Here's Johnny's!", no chase in nearby mazes. Just a sweet donkey to protect us named Poldo.
A little later we enjoyed dinner at the hotel with their house wine, Flavia and I actually put on sweaters, and...again, are these views for real?
After eating we decided to explore the center area, and joined Cortona's tiny population for a night on the town. Not much to say about that...after around 11 it was dead, but I'll never complain about walking through cobblestone streets, and it was nice talking with le ragazze (the girls)-total Italian language immersion.
By the way-my Italian: I am now able to understand almost everything, or at least understand the gist. I can usually say everything I want to, although almost with some sort of mistake, but I'm getting there. I love talking in Italian. I find myself saying very insignificant things just to use the Italian I know. Like "Ho corso" (I just went running.) or "Fa caldo" (It's hot out). Or, "Che hai mangiato?" (What did you eat?) haha. But anyway, I am practicing a lot and even don't speak Spanish to Marta anymore. I just don't want to find myself at a standstill, so I have to keep learning. There are just some things that I can't wrap my head around. Take "CI" for example. Three different meanings. And the similarities with Spanish that were initially helping me, are now confusing me and making me say the wrong thing. In any case, comunque, I have decided to take a class when I get back to Chile, I don't intend on losing this beautiful language that I am sure makes me sexier and cooler, any time soon.
Back to Tuscany. The next day we went on a Tuscan road trip through some of the towns nearby in the province of Siena. Each was more beautiful than the last, with their own charm. The first stop was Montepulciano, where we intended to have a light lunch. We found a winery/restaurant that offered either meals or wine tastings, so we decided to get the bruschetta mix and a pecorino cheese tasting with a bottle of their red wine.  |
| Light. |
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| Flavia (left), Maria (right) and I. |
After that, we headed towards Pienza, to grab some of their specialty items for home. More pecorino cheese, balsamic reductions with figs and truffle oil, sausages, and homemade "Pici" pasta. After passing by Via del amore (love), Via del Bacio (kiss), all the way to Via del Abandono (abandonment), we came upon this stunning church that was being prepared for a wedding. I have to say, it's tempting to try to do. I still have time. Before the bride arrived, we kept going and arrived in Bagno di Vignoni, which provided for a nice rest next to the ancient thermal baths, even though we couldn't have any real spa time.
Finally, we kept going towards our last stop, Montalcino (yes different from the first one...I kept thinking it was the same place). As Maria, our official driver, and Flavia, the official navigator argued over which way to go, I was just enjoying the ride, mesmerized by Tuscany. I couldn't get enough.
In Montalcino, which is famous for their Brunello wines, we looked around a bit and of course couldn't leave without buying a few bottles, that is after unexpectedly having the most expensive two sips of wine ever. If you have to pay for a tasting, shouldn't they tell you they'll only be pouring a drop in the glass? The three of us determinedly decided it was outrageous, and went on our way (purchased wine in hand). |
| Back to Cortona, on the hill... |
We drove and drove, up and down...through this town and that, back to Cortona, our vacation spot in the Tuscan trees. That night, it was papardelle with wild boar tomato sauce at The Shining Hotel, and not one, but two bottles of wine for our long conversation. At the end, the wine even became part of the dessert, with almond Cantuccini, (what we know as just biscottis), made especially for dipping in wine. Not your average idea of dessert, but I loved it.
After a little more exploring in town (and making our own fun on the playground), we headed back to rest. The next morning, we said our goodbye's to Poldo, and saw a few last sights of the city, including the villa described and owned by the writer of Under the Tuscan Sun.
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| Under the Tuscan Sun Villa |
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| Santa Maria Nuova |
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| View from the Girifalco Fortress in Cortona |
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| From inside the fortress |
Then,our car (and bodies) filled with everything Tuscan, we left Cortona, stopped at Lago Trasimeno...were unimpressed, found a place for lunch at what I think was the only place open on a Sunday afternoon in the entire region, and made the long drive back to Rome...suffocating just a little in the car, under the Tuscan sun.
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