Day 64- L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele

Before I jump into Naples, I need to dedicate an entry to the life changing pizza I had at L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele.  

It's funny how a random thought you once had can suddenly be happening.  How something that crossed your mind only for a fleeting second, materializes. I read about the pizza in Eat, Pray, Love and it was almost the defining moment where I realized how much I wished I could go there and be in Italy and eat that food. And then, I did, and I was. It's pretty amazing.

After arriving and finding our hostel, the first thing on our minds was lunch. So we quickly made our way to the famous place where author of Eat, Pray, Love, sat down and made love to her pizza, as well as where the lovely Julia Roberts ate for her scene in the movie.

The description I previously posted from the novel proved true in every sense.  Elizabeth Gilbert does not exagerate in any way, if anything she falls short, only because words of course can never amount to actually having a bite of this pizza in your mouth.

L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele is the definition of a typical hole in the wall restaurant, and very easy to miss. We were there around 1, so people were already crowded outside and we had to take a number and anxiously wait to be called.  As we waited, I peeked in to glimpse at people seated side by side at long tables; the rugged men making the pizza, with their shirt sleeves rolled up, wearing little hats stamped with the name of the pizzeria; the old men scattered around the place, one taking orders, another giving out tickets, a third seemingly supervising from a corner. Basically, they are the creators of this 140-year-old pizzeria; the original masterminds behind the perfection.

Then, suddenly, we finally heard it - "sessanta quatro!!" - and quickly filed inside and found our seats. Three margherita pizzas, doppia (double) mozzarella, per favore. No more than 10 minutes later, they were in front of us, cheesy, bubbling, and seductive. No need to beg, I started cutting and never looked back. 

The pizza literally rendered me speechless; talking would have meant having to stop eating. Only once during our lunch did I speak, to ask how to say beauty in Italian, since that was all I was thinking while losing myself in the pizza in front of me. Each bite was better than the last, and the whole while it was just like can this really be that good?

The pizza does in fact defy all laws of physics; the dough is the fluffiest doughiest dough ever, but so thin you could never eat a piece with your hands. Everything slides right off it, which was the only frustrating thing about it because it meant having to think about how exactly you would get the next piece on your fork. I'm a little worried because I don't know if pizza will ever be the same. I was almost ready to be at least a little let down.  Most of the time, when your expectations are that high, it's easy to find something wrong, even a detail. But with this pizza, no such case.  Michele knew what he was doing. It might always be my favorite pizza. A little hard to get, but my favorite nonetheless.

I am happy to say though, that the pizza at Pizza Post where I grew up in Greenwich, CT....is not far behind. I'd be proud to settle for it, if I have to. :)

...So in an entry, although only in reference to pizza, I'm not embarrassed to say I've told you about the most important part of my visit in Napoli. Still, there were other wonderful sites to see, not to mention nearby Pompei...so, more soon. In the meantime, go indulge in the best slice of pizza you can find.

Day 60- Frascati

I think I completely failed to mention that I've acquired a new roommate or apartment-mate a few weeks ago, named Marta, who is from Barcelona, and lovelyyy. So today, since she had the day off from work (for Liberation Day), we went with some of her colleagues to Frascati.  Frascati is a small town and comune of Rome, about 12 miles south-east, basically known for it's white wine.  So we went to drink wine.  Around 10 we caught the train and half an hour later we were there...We started with a coffee, (to show a little restraint from our wine enthusiasm), and just explored the town a little. I liked it almost instantly, because the town is just sort of propped on a hill, which to me seems very Italian country-esque.  Little windy cobblestone roads, and although, unfortunately a lot of things were closed, the beautiful view of Rome absolutely sufficed.

After wandering a while, we found a nice town square, with various little deli-like shops offering marinated vegetables, cheeses and cold cuts for sandwiches. We went for the most traditional-"Porchetta" sandwiches, which is sliced smoked ham, and a bottle of wine. Or three... We finished eating and took our wine to a little plaza where we could talk, drink, and just enjoy the scenery.

Porchetta

Soon it was time to catch the train back, so we headed down to the station.  Here I got sidetracked, because I saw what appeared to be a Bigne de San Giuseppe and thought this would be another opportunity to eat the oh-so-amazing pastry I loved so much last time I had it (of course), but was pretty disappointed because these were baked, not fried.  BIG difference, and frankly, despite the custard cream being quite delicious, not worth the calories at this point. I suppose I must come to terms with the fact that it was true that my beloved Bignes de San Giuseppe are only made for the Italian Father's Day and I did not eat nearly enough of them. Now it is crucial that I learn to make them myself...

Once our train came, I dozed a little and by around 4, I was back at home, very ready for a proper nap. If ever in Rome, Frascati is a great place for a quick day trip, a nice lunch and some wonderful white wine.

And just now, after packing my bag for Naples tomorrow, I made myself some dinner, which I am currently really excited about. Star component: eggplant "fries". I got the idea off Pinterest, but basically winged it because I didn't feel like looking for the recipe again on my phone.  But, very easy and SO so good. The creaminess of the eggplant is perfect with the crispy crunchy outside. I just cut the eggplant into little sticks, rolled them in egg and cream, then the mix of breadcrumbs and spices, and lightly fried them with some olive oil. Top it with some Parmesan, a little marinara sauce to dip them in and you're ready to go. I'm actually a little surprised at how successful the whole thing was. And I want to say it's relitively healthy if you don't deep fry them.  Plus, if you want you could just bake them...maybe I'll try that next time, which there definitely will be.

I also even have some fresh squeezed orange juice waiting for me in the fridge for breakfast tomorrow, to get a healthy start on my trip, which from lunch on will be anything but healthy. Ohh yesssss.

Buona sera!

Day 59- Happy Birthday Rome

Productive weekend. Catalina came and stayed with me and we went to a few of Rome's prime attractions. I went into the Basilica di San Pietro and saw the Pieta for the first time since I've been here, as well as to the Panteon, Castel Sant'Angelo and the Spanish Steps by daylight. We also stopped at Piazza Navona for lunch which was really nice. I had the Spaghetti alla Carbonara (egg bacon and cheese). It was not what I've thought a carbonara sauce consisted of this whole time, but sooo good. The egg was awesome. Of course eating in the tourist area means it was so overpriced, so that stung a little, but good nonetheless. If anything, what you put in your body to stay alive is worth it, right? More so than the beautiful 50-euro leather wallet I saw in a window? Haha.

Spanish Steps from afar

Italian flag Peek a boo 

View from Castel Sant'Angelo

Cupola in Basilica di St Pietro (Vatican)

Anyway, the highlight of my day was definitely this historical parade we stumbled upon, in honor of the Rome's 2,765th anniversary.  I just basked in the scenery watching procession of people dressed like Romans from thousands of years ago - dancers, soldiers doing war cries, the senate in their white robes, gladiators in...cloths. With the backdrop of the huge Vittorio Emanuele II Monument in Piazza Venezia and the Colosseum peeking from the distance, I basically felt like it was 700 BC. I could just imagine all the people and the festivities, with all these beautiful buildings just recently built and the Roman Empire thriving. It really makes you realize, it's all so old...

Later, while Cata went for the Collosseum, Pilar and I took advantage of the free entries this week and went to the Galleria Borguese, a modern arts museum that turned out to be completely worth a look. They had some really interesting expositions there now, especially the op art one. I was quite satisfied and thoroughly exhausted when I got home.

So classes this week were tough to stay awake for, but it's almost over. I had another Italian class today and on the way back, under the rain (still. raining.) I realized I was talking to myself in Italian. It was good practice okay? But then at some point I was just talking to myself period..."So laundry...then defrost the chicken, look up things to do in Naples, run?" I guess at that point what I needed to say was well past my abilities in the Italian language. I was pretty organized when I got home though.

And the more I'm in the kitchen with Valerio the more of a genius he proves to be. Today plain old mashed potatoes. But throw in some noce moscata (nutmeg) and it's Perfect Mashed Potatoes. He is going to be in trouble when the plane can't take off because of how HEAVY I WILL BE. God. :)

Anyway, I'm trying to get organized for my trip on Thursday. I leave with Daniela and a friend of hers, Nadine for Napoli! I'm not sure how long it takes to get there yet, but I know I leave around 10. So we're thinking we'll look around Napoli the first day, then on Friday visit Pompei and then Sunday leave after lunch. In preparation I did go running today after all...even with the rain, since you know my plan is to eat nothing but pizza. After all, they say it's the best pizza in Italy..which means it's the best in the world. I'm salivating a little...

I did go ahead and find the address for the pizzeria mentioned (and shown) in Eat, Pray, Love "L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele" (Via Cesare Sersale 1, if anyone's in the area). It definitely had to be one of my favorite parts in the book, so I cannot wait! They say there's a line, but really, who cares? It just means it's worth waiting in line for...

So I leave you with this. See if it doesn't make you want to meet me there in a few days:

"So Sofie and I have come to Pizzeria da Michele, and these pies we have just ordered - one for each of us - are making us lose our minds.  I love my pizza so much, in fact, that I have come to believe in my delirium that my pizza might actually love me, in return.  I am having a relationship with this pizza, almost an affair.  Meanwhile, Sofie is practically in tears over hers (...) "

"Pizzeria da Michele is s small place with only two rooms and one non-stop oven. It's about a fifteen-minute walk from the train station in the rain, don't even worry about it, just go. You need to get there fairly early in the day because sometimes they run out of dough, which will break your heart.  By 1:00 PM, the streets outside the pizzeria have become jammed with Neapolitans trying to get into the place, shoving for access like they're trying to get space on a lifeboat. There's not a menu. They have only two varieties of pizza here - regular and extra cheese. (...) The dough, it takes me half my meal to figure out, tastes more like Indian nan than like any pizza dough I ever tried.  It's soft and chewy and yielding, but incredibly thin. (...) How was I to have known there could be a crust in this world that was thin and doughy. On top there is a sweet tomato sauce that foams up all bubbly and cream when it melts the fresh buffalo mozzarella, and the one sprig of basil in the middle of the whole deal somehow infuses the entire pizza with herbal radiance, much the same way one shimmering movie star in the middle of a party brings a contact high of glamour to everyone around her."

-Elizabeth Gilbert (from Eat, Pray, Love)

Day 54- Rain

OK so enough rain already. I was loving it the first two days, because it was a weekend and I didn't have to go out for any reason whatsoever so that meant I was forced to stay in bed under the covers and read and watch shows online. While eating. What agony right?  But now, it's going to class in the rain, and of course having no car really brightens my mood. Rain. On the bus, off the bus. Rain. Metro. Rain. Blahh.

Plus, the rain only furthers my not running this week. Which was critical after all that wonderful French cuisine.  Not good. It didn't really go well last time I went running either.....I think I was maybe lacking in effort so my feet were maybe less off the ground than they should have been...so I tripped and completely ate it. Faceplanted. It was pretty bad. Of course it was hilarious, and as my eyes automatically got watery, I laughed for about 10 minutes at myself...but it was still bad. I looked like a ten-year-old with a rip in my leggings and my hands all scraped. This guy and some lady came over to me to see if I was OK (I can't stop laughing even as I'm replaying this in my head) and began talking in Italian and all I knew how to say was that I was OK and thank you.  How sad not being able to justify in the least bit why you were just lying on the ground. Awesome haha. Anyway..I will start to do exercise inside soon if this weather keeps up.

Speaking of exercise...and food...Valerio made more risotto.  And this time I paid attention so I am hoping I can make a batch myself soon. Risotto di Funghi (Mushrooms). It was delishh.  And soon he'll be showing me how to make artichokes the "Roman Way" with the fresh ones we bought at a fair that is done in honor of the artichoke, that are now in season here. The Sagra del Carciofo Romanesco, took place on the streets of Ladispoli, a small coastal town about 40 minutes from Rome. So basically never-ending stands of artichokes, as wells those that ranged of things from fresh cheese and salami, to clothes and cooking utensils.  The artichokes are however, different from what I usually have in the States or Chile, because they're smaller and the leaves have a purple hue in them, which actually makes them quite pretty and flowerlike. From what I can see, the leaves are also tougher so I've noticed they only use the inner leaves and the heart to cook with. For lunch we stopped at a place with a set menu, every item containing artichoke. Artichoke gnocchi and lasagna, prawns and calamari with artichoke sauce, and the highlight of my day, FRIED artichokes. See for yourself.

Carciofi Friti!

So..plans for this weekend: it's the Settimana della Cultura or Culture Week. Which is amazing (as long as it STOPS RAINING!), because to promote and celebrate the culture of Rome, they open the doors to all of the museums and historical sights for free! So that means I'm going to get my tourist on (finally) at all the places there are to offer in the city that is my "current location". I am also hoping to look into a guided tours of ancient ruins outside of Rome, as well as a cello concert that looks interesting. We'll see. And I won't be at it alone, because Catalina, a girl Coni and I met in Paris is coming to stay with me until Tuesday. She's actually Colombian and is living in Berlin, so I'm sure she'll be all for seeing the sights.

Besides that, it looks like it'll be Napoli and Pompei next...Sound good?

Day 52- Milan, Budapest, Paris

Hello again! Well I have to admit I've been dreading this entry because I feel like I have so much to say and it's going to take too long to do it...but I'm going to try and keep it short and sweet.  During my trip I did have the chance to write a few times, but at the end of each day all I wanted to do was pass out, so it just never happened.  Anyway...Milan, Budapest, and Paris:

I would have liked to spend more time in Milan, to be able to really figure out how it's different than Rome. It's a very pretty city as well, from the little that I saw, and you could tell it was smaller than Rome, and definitely much less touristy.  I think I liked that a lot about it right away. Needless to say it's also the fashion capitol of Italy. But part of the experience of being in Rome for me is being surrounded by all the monuments and soaking in the history...not necessarily by going into museums, but just by living in it.  Other than that, Milan was also a bit of a party weekend for Coni and I. It definitely seems like they have a fun nightlife there. And it was an intense two days, but we had a really good time and met some great people. I'd definitely go back.

Spin on the bulls testicles to return to Milan!

Duomo di Milano

Then, Budapest. It was beginning to get really warm in Rome, so of course both of us thought it would be the case in areas close by. So no boots, or gloves, or jackets. And we step out of the airport and I thought we were in Russia. It was cold....and very windy. It made for an interesting sight as we began the journey to our hostel...we were definitely being blown down the street with our suitcases while we simultaneously tried to look at a map and ask someone for directions. Actually, finding someone who spoke English came first because there was no chance whatsoever that we would be asking for directions in the Hungarian language.  Hello is pronounced an equivalent of  "See ya" and Goodbye is "Helo". Come on.  It was a miracle we found the place as quick as we did.  I know we felt pretty proud.

Once settled in at Blacksheep Hostel (amazing and completely recommended), we set out to see Budapest. It definitely felt foreign. I was a little dumbfounded by the whole place really...Again it seemed like you were in a regular city, after all there is a McDonalds and Starbucks within blocks of each other...but something just seemed different. I think the language was the determinant factor really, because being able to somehow communicate is always comforting. But here there was no such thing. People really didn't even understand the flapping hand gestures we'd make. And the look they'd give us was a little scary to be honest. You would think after repeating "WHICH WAY" three different ways and pointing to a place on the map, they would get the point....right? Haha. It's so nice being a tourist. I have to remember to enjoy it next time I'm in Chile and someone with a camera and a map asks for directions.

Anyway, we saw the sights...mostly thanks to a wonderful free walking tour that we went on and the charming guide we had. The view from Castle Hill is definitely high on my list, the contrasting colors were gorgeous.  I also loved this fair we came upon at a little square in town. They supposedly have it running all year and it's a display of traditional Hungarian foods, drinks, artisan work, and music. I thought it was special though, because it seemed very genuine and also enjoyed by local people more so than tourists. It was Sunday, so along with Coni and I, many families enjoyed the food as the sun set. We had an interesting version of what I can only compare to a Quesadilla (so good), some typical sausages with mustard and bread, beer of course, and an amaaazing dessert, this pastry dough that is slowly roasted on a fire and then rolled in whatever topping you want (we went with cinnamon). It was absolutely my kind of thing, crispy and sugary on the outside and then soft and doughy on the inside...almost like a cinnamon bun. Mmm. I do think I'll have to go back someday because we didn't get around to the thermal baths or seeing the city lit up at night. We did go out one night and ended up at this totally kitsch bar - fabrics on the ceiling, chairs on the wall, and waitresses selling both hookahs and...carrots. Yes. Freshly peeled carrots. Want a carrot with your beer? Only 150 Hungarian Forints. Haha They had to have something in them. Anyway, by the time we left the bar and went to take pictures by the Danube River, the Parliament Building's lights were off. So...next time.

View of the Parliament from Castle Hill

#2 on the menu: Rooster Testicles!

The fair at Deak Ferenc Square

Enjoying "Kurtos Kalacs", the sweet Hungarian pastry

A Hungarian tradition:
Write the name of your other half on a lock and throw the key in the Dunabe River.
The bigger the better?

Central Market Hall (Nagy Vasarcsarnok)


For more pictures: Szia Budapest

And Paris. Oh Paris. (I say that with a french accent by the way). Let me begin my saying it's not everyday you get a chance to be in Paris in APRIL. It's not a song for nothing.  Although it was still a little cold for our oh so winter savvy wardrobe, flowers and trees were in full bloom and any rain or fog just made everything more perfect. I took about 900 pictures. And inevitably I think maybe 300 were of the Eiffel Tower. What can I say, it is truly stunning. Shred it of all it's fame and extravagance and it would still be stunning. To me, it's more about the view of it as a whole, it's grandeur and shape, how it fits so effortlessly into the skyline and at the end of Champs de Mars. I mean really, up close, it's not that pretty. Looking at the intertwined iron bars while we walked up the tower, you start to wonder about the choice of paint. It all just begins to look like an abandoned construction site.  But sure enough the color does suit it; it all comes together, when you just barely see it peek through the fog on a cloudy day. Or when the sun does shine it stands so distinctly against that ocean sky. I could get all philosophical and say that it's similar to so many things-where little pieces make a bigger whole...how that's all we are in this world too...But I won't.

So...we saw the Eiffel Tower. By day, by night. That was a first for me, seeing it's little show of sparkles, plastic cup of wine in hand. I actually had one of those moments where you're just like..that is beautiful. I think it was because it was so cold out. It was one of those nights where your nose gets red and you can feel every bit of air that gets into the back of the neck of your jacket. And you're not sure you really have hands anymore. It made me really awake. And very aware of where I was and what tower it was I was looking at, on what would otherwise be a completely ordinary April night. It was like everything just sort of blurred away and all I could see was the sparkles. It made me stop thinking for a second. I hope someday something I do makes at least one person feel like that. I hope Gustave Eiffel knew he had created so much more than a piece of architecture.

Of course we saw so much more. I'm impressed by how much we got around to, most of our circles on the map were accomplished. Louvre, check. Hotel des Invalides, check. Musee de Rodin, Moulin Rouge, Montmartre, Sacre Coeur, Notre Dame, Sainte Chapelle, Pont Neuf, Latin Quarters, Place de Vosges, Place de Vendome, Palais de l'Elysee, Arc de Triomphe. And other things along the way. And Versailles. Which truly merits an entire day, but we did what we could. I'd be a size 0 and eat croissants everyday if I lived close by, because running in those gardens would be irresistible. Oh to be royal. Such luxury. "Let them eat cake!" as the lady of the estate would say.

So we were really busy. And the walk back to the hostel every night put us right to bed as soon as we finished our Korean dinner...when we managed to get there in time. The whole experience at the hostel is really a whole different story. Because of it, we truly experienced two cultures while in Paris: the French and the Korean. The hostel was basically run by what seemed like a Korean family, and they very genuinely took care of us from the moment we walked through the door, with warm cups of tea, amazing authentic food, and happy smiles. I must admit the Asian writing on the walls kind of freaked me out at the beginning...buuut, then you just sort of realize the people must have felt so at home. By the end of our stay I was even getting used to the slippers and tiny beds. If anyone needs a place to stay in Paris, it's the "Paris Namdemun Guesthouse".

Other suggestions? You can never eat too much in Paris. Have a croissant a day, try the different flavored macaroons, (especially the fruit ones) on Rue Sainte Dominique. What is called The Latin Quarter, (an area in the 5th and 6th arrondissement of Paris) had good and less pricey restaurants, especially for some fondue! Um..Place des Vosges has great bakeries and cafes for brunch. There are also a lot of nice shops there. Don't leave Paris without buying at least one piece of clothing. Go into the designer stores to look even if you can't afford anything in them.  Also, look out for days when museums are free, like the Louvre on Fridays after 6 (under 25 years old). Sainte Chapelle is not to be overlooked-it's just as beautiful if not more beautiful than Notre Dame. And last...if you can, do the combination of stairs and elevator at the Eiffel Tower...it's cheaper and the line took no more than 10 minutes. So there you go.

Musee de Rodin

St. Chapelle

                                              

From the top of the tour

Versailles castle steps

Versailles estate

By night

My favorite picture

For more pictures: C'est Paris (Part 1) (Part 2 coming soon)

Besides the obvious and inevitable (that I had a great time and each place was stunningly beautiful), this trip quickly became so much more about growing and learning than anything else. When your wallet is lost with all your money in it, and you're basically broke in a foreign country, it's pretty much a crash-course in travelling. Plus luggage and flight problems...The whole thing just breaks you down and makes you want your mom. But. I am 23. So I had to figure out what the hell to do on my own. Which I did. And I'm now safe and sound back in Rome, so I'm going to go ahead and assume I did an amazing job.

It was exhausting though; having a combination of such opposite feelings in such close intervals of time does that. It was feeling courage, and angst; nerves, excitement, beauty, anger, peace, awe...It was understanding how to give and take, to be tolerant, to compromise and about trusting that somehow, everything would be alright.  Little by little I'm realizing that everything absolutely does happen for a reason.  How many bad experiences can you honestly look back upon now and still have only negative feelings about?  Of course it must have been hard. And the moment sucked. But I would bet that there are also positive feelings surrounding the experience as well. If not a lot of laughing....So the good cancels out the bad, and it just becomes experience.

I'm already laughing thinking about this trip. I've decided anything else isn't really worth it...