Day 83- Centro Storico

Well I'm a lot happier than the other day. Yesterday I was determined to validate my understanding of the Italian language to myself so I went out on a mission. For Parmesano, Prosciutto di Parma and VINO. So I went to a nearby "salumeria" and asked the stout white-haired man behind the counter for the goods.  The conversation went better than I thought.  He understood everything I said, promptly gave me a variety of things to try before handing over my choices.  I even got a compliment for my Italian. I did have to point silently to the olives though...I still can't remember the word for them. Anyway. After that I walked around for a while...I have to do an entry on my neighborhood sometime, which I am so happy to live in, by the way. I'm hoping how much I spent and that I brought home food doesn't have everything to do with the fact that I was in a better mood...?

Also, I forgot to mention that I got a 27/30 on my Spanish Lit exam so...it's a good start! The whole thing was nerve wrecking though, the teacher totally grilled me on some topics. But anyway I'm not complaining. So long as I do at least that good in English and Italian. I have to study.

Speaking of which, I love how now that I'll have more time because my classes and exams will be over, ironically so will all of my shows...Oops. I hear Grey's Anatomy's finale was a tearjerker...but I'm waiting for Maria to see it. I hope she doesn't mind me bawling, because there's a 95% chance I will. Oh my.

One of the purchases I made yesterday was of a new travel guide for Rome. Yup. Lonely Planet: Encounter Rome. So today, after running I was ready to put it to good use. At 12, I left the house and took the bus/tram trip to Piazza Navona where I met Daniela.  And after circling around a few blocks looking for the recommended Panini place, Lo Zozzono, we had lunch. Basically, we wandered around Centro Storico, getting lost (like the book said we should!), until making our way to the Jewish Ghetto.  Here, surrounded by kosher bakeries and restaurants, we found the archeological site of the Teatro di Marcello and Portico d'Ottavia. And let me tell you this is why I love Rome.  You think you know what it's all about.  You've seen the movies, you've seen the post cards.  You know what the Colosseum looks like. And I've lived here for almost three months now (woaa...) and I go past some of the most amazing landmarks without being dazed.  I walk along the same streets thinking I've seen most of it.  No way.  Rome is a city of discovery.  It's about being in the same place a hundred times and still finding new things.  Granted, this was the first time at this site, but I had driven and walked past it on my way to something else, many times. But now, I got up close, and it has to be one of my favorite historical sites so far. In short:

Portico d'Ottivia

The 1st-century BC Portico d'Ottavia was first a temple complex, built by Augustus in the name of his sister, Octavia.  After various fires over the years, it was restored using foreign marble and was adorned by many fresco paintings and now famous works of art. In the medieval era, the area and structure was later used as a fish market, which lasted up to the end of the 1800's. This role is remembered by the name of the annexed church, partly formed by its columns, Chiesa di Sant'Angelo in Pescheria.

Corridor of Teatro di Marcello

The "dramatic fusion of eras" (as Lonely Planet puts it) continues at the Teatro di Marcello, where a Renaissance palace by Baldassare Peruzzi is incorporated onto the ruins of the theater, that had also been built by Augustus, in the last years of the Roman Republic.

So, nothing crazy or anything...but as I was reading about it, the architectural diversity became completely obvious and I could imagine what each era was like. First, the Portico d'Ottavia being a huge Roman Building, where important people in their togas would channel in and out of; then a fish Market, where Romans would compare the size of their fish and promote their catch on big slabs of marble taken from the monument itself; then part of a holy entrance to a church. You could just see centuries going by before your eyes like some sort of history movie. I just loved how each part corresponding to another time period was molded together to make a new structure...like they melted into each other over time. You look at the theater, and there is clearly a contrast in materials and styles, but there's also something about it that looks so natural.

Teatro di Marcello

We took it all in for a few minutes, then walked through the streets of "Il Ghetto" for a gelato, to finalize our outing of the day. So as of now, I am thoroughly satisfied with another day here, overseas. Tomorrow is La Notte dei Musei (Museum Night), which means that museums all over Rome are open for the night, for free. So we'll see what that brings. And Sunday, the plan is to go get lunch in Orvieto, a town near Umbria a ways off from Rome.  Marta went and had some sort of stuffed pasta dish with melted pecorino cheese at a trattoria, and I hear they have rabbit too, so that's enough to convince me.

After a long day, it's off to bed for me...

Day 60- Frascati

I think I completely failed to mention that I've acquired a new roommate or apartment-mate a few weeks ago, named Marta, who is from Barcelona, and lovelyyy. So today, since she had the day off from work (for Liberation Day), we went with some of her colleagues to Frascati.  Frascati is a small town and comune of Rome, about 12 miles south-east, basically known for it's white wine.  So we went to drink wine.  Around 10 we caught the train and half an hour later we were there...We started with a coffee, (to show a little restraint from our wine enthusiasm), and just explored the town a little. I liked it almost instantly, because the town is just sort of propped on a hill, which to me seems very Italian country-esque.  Little windy cobblestone roads, and although, unfortunately a lot of things were closed, the beautiful view of Rome absolutely sufficed.

After wandering a while, we found a nice town square, with various little deli-like shops offering marinated vegetables, cheeses and cold cuts for sandwiches. We went for the most traditional-"Porchetta" sandwiches, which is sliced smoked ham, and a bottle of wine. Or three... We finished eating and took our wine to a little plaza where we could talk, drink, and just enjoy the scenery.

Porchetta

Soon it was time to catch the train back, so we headed down to the station.  Here I got sidetracked, because I saw what appeared to be a Bigne de San Giuseppe and thought this would be another opportunity to eat the oh-so-amazing pastry I loved so much last time I had it (of course), but was pretty disappointed because these were baked, not fried.  BIG difference, and frankly, despite the custard cream being quite delicious, not worth the calories at this point. I suppose I must come to terms with the fact that it was true that my beloved Bignes de San Giuseppe are only made for the Italian Father's Day and I did not eat nearly enough of them. Now it is crucial that I learn to make them myself...

Once our train came, I dozed a little and by around 4, I was back at home, very ready for a proper nap. If ever in Rome, Frascati is a great place for a quick day trip, a nice lunch and some wonderful white wine.

And just now, after packing my bag for Naples tomorrow, I made myself some dinner, which I am currently really excited about. Star component: eggplant "fries". I got the idea off Pinterest, but basically winged it because I didn't feel like looking for the recipe again on my phone.  But, very easy and SO so good. The creaminess of the eggplant is perfect with the crispy crunchy outside. I just cut the eggplant into little sticks, rolled them in egg and cream, then the mix of breadcrumbs and spices, and lightly fried them with some olive oil. Top it with some Parmesan, a little marinara sauce to dip them in and you're ready to go. I'm actually a little surprised at how successful the whole thing was. And I want to say it's relitively healthy if you don't deep fry them.  Plus, if you want you could just bake them...maybe I'll try that next time, which there definitely will be.

I also even have some fresh squeezed orange juice waiting for me in the fridge for breakfast tomorrow, to get a healthy start on my trip, which from lunch on will be anything but healthy. Ohh yesssss.

Buona sera!