Day 118- Liguria: Beaches, Le Cinque Terre, and Food

After stopping in Pisa to change trains, we arrived in Sestri Levante.  But not for long. In fact, only about 3 minutes. To save time, Pilar's mom's friends offered to meet us at the station so we could drop off our things and quickly jump back on the train to go straight on through to Santa Margharita for some much desired beach time.

When we found the absolutely beautiful beach, we both scooted onto the tiny hand towel we had in our suitcase and finally found ourselves lying in paradise. Pili without hesitation and in no more than 5 minutes was in the Ligurian Sea, clear and tepid, or boiling compared to Chile's Pacific water. After a while I was in too, looking around dumbfounded by the utopian-like surroundings (including what can only be described as an Italian god, casually sprawled in front of us).

As the heat of the sun began to fade, we gathered our things and walked around town for a little, window shopping...

Until we decided it was time to head back to Sestri for dinner at Osteria Gioitta, owned and managed by our new hosts.  Here, Pilar and I succumbed to their overwhelming hospitality and delicious cooking, over a 6 course meal.  Menu? Just don't drool...

• Proscioutto e melone- Prosciutto and cantaloupe melon
• Fagottino di taleggio con marmelata di tropeo- Fried Teleggio cheese with tropeo onion marmalade
• Caprini con semi di coriandolo glassa di aceto balsamico- Goat cheese with coriander seeds and balsamic reduction
•  Mezzelune di magro con punta da asparragi e gorgonzola- Pork filled pasta with gorgonzola and asparagus tips
• Boconcino de maiale con sala di mirtilli- Pork medallions with blueberry sauce
• Bavarese al rosmarino- Rosmary custard

                

After having talked for a while, our conversation reduced to comments on the food and mumbling of enjoyment as we gathered the strength for each plate. Finally, once the busy Saturday night dinner service came to an end, I was better introduced to Urzula and Luca, and came to know their story: Urzula, who is from Chile, met Luca there years ago when he was working as a chef at a hotel. As fairy tales would go, they fell in love, and Urzula decided to come back to Italy with him, where they opened a tiny (yet perfectly charming) 5-table traditional Italian osteria. It is just the two of them most of the time; while Luca cooks away his creations in his personal kitchen, Urzula tends to front of the restaurant and hungry customers. That night, we helped with their routine, cleaning up the tables and setting them again, leaving everything ready for lunch the next day.

And it was then, while I put plates and wine glasses on each tavolo of the little restaurant in a most beautiful place in the north of Italy, that I could not help but envy their lifestyle. As unusual at it might sound, I could have done it forever. Stay working there, helping them run the place, go to the beach once in a while, watch the seasons change while living at a vacation hot spot. It was the first time I've had such a strong feeling of wanting to stay; of wanting to do what is done in movies- leave everything behind and open a little business in the middle of nowhere (but a nowhere that just happens to be gorgeous), and make a living. Of course there are moments when I dream of something else, maybe an endless bank account and all the glamour that comes with it, but it seems like the way Urzula and Luca live brings a different pleasure, an easier happiness. Where good food and having enough to do what you want with the people you're with is all that matters. Really, nothing else does, it just depends on what you thing "enough" is.

Anyway, talking with Pilar outside while they finished up, it was clear we were both feeling pretty complete. We got everything together and were brought to their apartment, where Urzula gave us a tour and showed us to our room, complete with a Chilean flag pillow to make us feel at home, before we both fell asleep.


Day two in Liguria was planned for visiting Cinque Terre, a series of five colorful towns built on the cliffs, along the coastline a few train stops from Sestri Levante. After a seemingly four star hotel breakfast of fruit, cereal, bread and coffee lovingly prepared by Urzula, we left eager to see the picturesque views. And yet, just at the station while waiting for the train, we were already having adventures...We decided to stop at the bathroom before starting the long walk through Cinque Terre, and only after waiting in a very long line, realized that the bathroom was basically a hole in the floor. Since we didn't know when we'd get another opportunity to go, we took our chances and went for it, but lets just say I was grossed out for the next half hour; my rubber flip flops on the wet floor did not make it easy, and I barely escaped what would have been an absolutely disgusting experience. Eww ew ew.

Monterosso

Fortunately having survived the bathroom, we went into the first town, called Monterosso and began our walk through the hills to Vernazza.  It ended up being mostly all uphill, up what seemed like 1000 steps...but the view made it more than bearable.  And despite the at times shriek-provoking lizards that scatter at your every move (Pili hates them), we found Vernazza and had our packed lunch in it's little harbor.

                   

Vernazza

From there, we decided to take a train directly to Riomaggiore (the last of the five towns), because the paths between the next town, Corniglia, and Manarola were closed. This way we could walk back to Manarola from there, along the dreamy Via del Amore, a long path bordering the side of the coast, famous for spurring marriage proposals amongst couples in love. Both without a second half present to currently propose to us, we admired the never-ending sea horizon as well as all the lovesick and declarative graffiti, before having an overpriced glass of wine at a little bar that hangs over the cliff along the way.

Riomaggiore Harbor

 

Via dell'Amore

View from our table at the bar

Manarola in the background

Around 6 we were in Manarola, and hungry, we caught the train back to Sestri Levante for what we thought was and early dinner with Urzula. Once Luca was home a couple hours later, Urzula appeared at the door asking if we were ready to eat. Haha. Why of course we were. We sat down and gladly ate a "light" second dinner of prosciutto and melon, fresh mozzarella and mixed salad.  And with the food came great conversation, including some funny stories about language misunderstandings; like ever so calmly saying you can't find a "picina" (little girl) at a store, instead of "piscina" (plastic pool), waiting while everyone but you hysterically looks for the missing girl; or ranting to your sons teacher, a nun, about how finding certain school supplies is such a "cazzo" (penis) instead of "caso" (case, in spanish). Oh, the importance of correct pronunciation. Who knows what I've said without even realizing it haha...

Portofino Bay

The next morning, we rolled out of bed a little later than planned, and after missing the first train, arrived in Santa Margharita, where we took a bus to neighboring Portofino, the exclusive, celebrity worthy destination of Liguria. It turns out, the name of this small hidden town  is very appropriate, since the translation of Portofino (or Puertofino in spanish) is basically "Fine (as in fine-dining) Port"...and fine it is. We walked around a little, looking into the nice shops and restaurants, then headed towards a little lighthouse at the top of the hill, always watched by surveillance cameras, past mysterious summer villas, one being the vacation home shared by designers Dolce and Gabbana.

A peek at D&G House

One of the D&G entrances

Pili at the Portofino's "spiaggia publica"

After a while, and seeing an especially mouthwatering lunch being served on the waterfront (a chef mixing spaghetti inside an actual wheel of cheese), we decided to go back to Santa Margharita for lunch. We settled on a little shop we found on a less busy street, where we had homemade eggplant parmesan. Delishh. Then dessert from a candy store, while we sat on the beach to wait for Urzula and Luca who were nearby and wanted to pick us up to show us some of the nearby attractions. After a sighting of the regional version of Paris Hilton, we went on a driving tour of Chiavari, Lavagna and the bay of Sestri Levante.

Back at their apartment again, it was time for dinner-this time Luca's pesto. Does it kind of seems like the days revolved around the food, or is it just me? Haha...Anyway, we all talked for hours and I couldn't help but think about their way of living again. They leave the house together, work together, then go home again, and somehow they've managed to still love each other, and make it look easy. I definitely admire what they have accomplished and can only hope to be so lucky! Altre volta, grazie Urzu e Luca!! :)

Bahia di Sestri Levante

The next day we went back to Rome, with another short stop in Pisa, where our shopping impulses (and having to run to the farthest track) almost caused us to miss our train. I can't say I was too excited to be home this time, because our trip was so much fun and I would have happily extended my visit, however I can't complain too much when "home" is Rome. There's always something to do here...

Day 78- Sorchetta Doppio Schizzo

Well this week I had my last Spanish and English Lit class, so now just Italian to go. Which is nicee.  I have my first exam on Tuesday, so I have been reading up on summaries of "La Regenta". We shall see.

Besides that the weather has been amazing. No more rain!! It has felt like summer most days this week...so I am ready for a beach and the tan that will come with it. Now I'm just waiting for all the spring pollen to be goneee so my allergies can be gone with it. The whole breathing out of my mouth is getting really old.

I did get out a little more this week. Tuesday night I went to Coni and Pilar's for some wine and catching up...It was definitely nice to get out of the house. Then on Wednesday people came over for Marta's malted chocolate cake..and more wine. I also tried Aperol, which is basically another version of Campari, but sweeter.  So go figure, I like it more. The traditional way to drink it is with prosecco, called a "Spritz", so when in doubt about what to order at a bar here, go for that. It's growing on me.

And yesterday was a big eating day. I had a lot of reallly good food. First for lunch, Pasquina (did I fail to mention the new girl again?) made pesto. So wait, quick side note- Pascuina is my new apartment-mate, which means we have a full house.  She's 24, and from Siena. Which makes me happy because that means I'm currently surrounded by one more Italian. She's the sweetest, and from what Valerio tells me, very southern, with her breakfast set up perfectly at the kitchen table every night, ready for the next morning. We have happily been exchanging Italian and English, wanting to be fluent by the time we both leave here. I'm finding we're similar in many ways...same random pair of shoes, we both have blue lufas. Haha. And if it's possible, she's even more organized and cleaning-obsessive than I am. Godsent. We're definitely getting along.

So anyway. Pesto. Pasquina's brother came to visit, and brought her mom's homemade pesto, so she threw that in a bowl with mozzarella and cherry tomatoes.  Such a great fresh lunch for the summer and how hot it was yesterday. Then, Valerio made Tiramisu. It never ends. That's another one on my list that he has to teach me how to make. It was honestly the best one I've had so far (which isn't many, but hey, it beats both restaurants). Later, around 8, we decided to go out for a drink close by...Check out Valerio's parking job:

Obviously it hit on the way in. And the way out.

I think it's great that you can get away with this without getting a ticket or having your window smashed...Oh Valerio. Le cose que fai! Haha. Anyway, we went in and for a set price you get a cocktail and access to a little buffet of hor d'oeuvres, and by hors d'oeuvres I mean a full meal of little slices of various pizzas, pasta mixes and grilled vegetables. Yum. Then...back at the house Valerio made dinner for Maria, which ended up being...wait for it.....Spaghetti with white clam sauce. I was so excited it wasn't even funny. This used to be one of my grandma's best meals and I used to ask for it for my birthday all the time. I haven't had it for years...so I had to have a little taste and of course was in heaven. So so good. And apparently really easy to make...so yup-another thing I'll be learning to cook.

After dinner, I went out with Maria, Flavia, Coni and Pilar, to a place called Circolo degli Artisti.  Now I'm not sure if I mentioned it before, but my first week in Rome, Daniela and I went out one night and ended up walking around after going to this place and finding it empty. Last night, it was definitely not empty, and turned out to be really fun. Basically it almost looks like a park; it's outdoors, with different areas to sit in tables, sofas, etc., and bars spread out throughout the area. There's also a pizzeria and a grilled sandwich station if you get hungry, and a closed space with a DJ for dancing. So nottt bad. Granted getting there and back with a car was amazing, so we'll see how it by means of regular old roman public transportation next time we go.  

Of course, on our way home, we had to try the late night (or early morning) snack, a "Sorchetta doppio schizzo"..a fried pastry topped with cream and nutella. Now, Sorchetta is the name of the pastry and
doppio schizzo means double squeezed, referring to the two toppings...however, there is a double meaning...which I don't know how to put into words, so you guys are on your own for that one. I'll give you a hint- Romans have pretty dirty minds. 

That's Maria!

Despite it's meaning (and I say despite, writing from a woman's perspective haha), it was a delicious way to end the night.

So now, I need to do more studying...There's a vegetarian vegetable market today (redundant as it sounds) that I'd like to go to in the afternoon with Maria, but I don't know if I'll have the time. If I apply myself enough maybe I could go...Uff. Now that I think of it, my shelves in the fridge are actually completely empty besides a yogurt and two tomatoes...sooo maybe I should consider it more of a necessity?

Day 60- Frascati

I think I completely failed to mention that I've acquired a new roommate or apartment-mate a few weeks ago, named Marta, who is from Barcelona, and lovelyyy. So today, since she had the day off from work (for Liberation Day), we went with some of her colleagues to Frascati.  Frascati is a small town and comune of Rome, about 12 miles south-east, basically known for it's white wine.  So we went to drink wine.  Around 10 we caught the train and half an hour later we were there...We started with a coffee, (to show a little restraint from our wine enthusiasm), and just explored the town a little. I liked it almost instantly, because the town is just sort of propped on a hill, which to me seems very Italian country-esque.  Little windy cobblestone roads, and although, unfortunately a lot of things were closed, the beautiful view of Rome absolutely sufficed.

After wandering a while, we found a nice town square, with various little deli-like shops offering marinated vegetables, cheeses and cold cuts for sandwiches. We went for the most traditional-"Porchetta" sandwiches, which is sliced smoked ham, and a bottle of wine. Or three... We finished eating and took our wine to a little plaza where we could talk, drink, and just enjoy the scenery.

Porchetta

Soon it was time to catch the train back, so we headed down to the station.  Here I got sidetracked, because I saw what appeared to be a Bigne de San Giuseppe and thought this would be another opportunity to eat the oh-so-amazing pastry I loved so much last time I had it (of course), but was pretty disappointed because these were baked, not fried.  BIG difference, and frankly, despite the custard cream being quite delicious, not worth the calories at this point. I suppose I must come to terms with the fact that it was true that my beloved Bignes de San Giuseppe are only made for the Italian Father's Day and I did not eat nearly enough of them. Now it is crucial that I learn to make them myself...

Once our train came, I dozed a little and by around 4, I was back at home, very ready for a proper nap. If ever in Rome, Frascati is a great place for a quick day trip, a nice lunch and some wonderful white wine.

And just now, after packing my bag for Naples tomorrow, I made myself some dinner, which I am currently really excited about. Star component: eggplant "fries". I got the idea off Pinterest, but basically winged it because I didn't feel like looking for the recipe again on my phone.  But, very easy and SO so good. The creaminess of the eggplant is perfect with the crispy crunchy outside. I just cut the eggplant into little sticks, rolled them in egg and cream, then the mix of breadcrumbs and spices, and lightly fried them with some olive oil. Top it with some Parmesan, a little marinara sauce to dip them in and you're ready to go. I'm actually a little surprised at how successful the whole thing was. And I want to say it's relitively healthy if you don't deep fry them.  Plus, if you want you could just bake them...maybe I'll try that next time, which there definitely will be.

I also even have some fresh squeezed orange juice waiting for me in the fridge for breakfast tomorrow, to get a healthy start on my trip, which from lunch on will be anything but healthy. Ohh yesssss.

Buona sera!

Day 12-Laziness

The awe effect is beginning to wear off. Maybe a little too much so. Are you allowed to be lazy if you're in Italy? I've been ticking things off my to do list slowly, boring official stuff for school...getting papers back to Chile to prove I'm here I guess. And now I just want to develop some sort of a routine. Half of me wanted to come to get out of a routine so I'm confusing myself a little. Perhaps I just wanted a new routine? I'm definitely a creature of habit so I know it's more comfortable for me...but whooo knows. I haven't had any classes yet- the whole system here is as lazy as I feel right now...you do what you want and then just see if you can pass the exams. Most of the classes I want to take start in April (YES April)...So that gives me some time to...walk more. and travel. and see things. But then again I have a placement test for my Italian language course on the 12th, so I can't go too far.  I'm trying to go to Pisa this weekend, see if they've figured out how to get that tour straight yet. It's probably lazy too. From all the pizza. Get it? Sorry.

But the food here does relax you. I mean it's comfort food on a whole different level. All I really want to do is eat. And the fact that I've been watching Masterchef episodes on my computer every chance I get, does not help. Anyone who watches any sort of cooking show knows how the second you see people making these beautiful dishes all you want to do is go out and buy fresh ingredients and make something yourself. Which I just did. They had a ravioli challenge, and ohhh I just happened to have newly-bought authentic Italian (albeit packaged) ravioli in my fridge-or section of the fridge that belongs to me- and so I ate. And it was great. I have been out running a few times but I can't help feeling self-conscious...it's like people know I'm a crazy outsider running around trying not to get fat from all their irresistible food. Oh well. Maybe I'll do something indoors today.

Something else always happens to me when I watch these reality shows. I always wish I was on one....like this unhealthy envy that I could be changing my life or following my dream like the people on the screens are...like whyyy can't that happen to me. And then I think, well you are doing something you've been wanting to do. It just doesn't feel that amazing. Maybe you don't feel that amazing while it's happening? Maybe you have to be filmed for it to seem like something more special. Then of course I'm in my room on my computer instead of having a gelato in front of the Fontana di Trevi...or reading on the steps of Piazza Espagna...or walking through flocks of pigeons at the Vatican.

Maybe tomorrow.