Day 118- Liguria: Beaches, Le Cinque Terre, and Food

After stopping in Pisa to change trains, we arrived in Sestri Levante.  But not for long. In fact, only about 3 minutes. To save time, Pilar's mom's friends offered to meet us at the station so we could drop off our things and quickly jump back on the train to go straight on through to Santa Margharita for some much desired beach time.

When we found the absolutely beautiful beach, we both scooted onto the tiny hand towel we had in our suitcase and finally found ourselves lying in paradise. Pili without hesitation and in no more than 5 minutes was in the Ligurian Sea, clear and tepid, or boiling compared to Chile's Pacific water. After a while I was in too, looking around dumbfounded by the utopian-like surroundings (including what can only be described as an Italian god, casually sprawled in front of us).

As the heat of the sun began to fade, we gathered our things and walked around town for a little, window shopping...

Until we decided it was time to head back to Sestri for dinner at Osteria Gioitta, owned and managed by our new hosts.  Here, Pilar and I succumbed to their overwhelming hospitality and delicious cooking, over a 6 course meal.  Menu? Just don't drool...

• Proscioutto e melone- Prosciutto and cantaloupe melon
• Fagottino di taleggio con marmelata di tropeo- Fried Teleggio cheese with tropeo onion marmalade
• Caprini con semi di coriandolo glassa di aceto balsamico- Goat cheese with coriander seeds and balsamic reduction
•  Mezzelune di magro con punta da asparragi e gorgonzola- Pork filled pasta with gorgonzola and asparagus tips
• Boconcino de maiale con sala di mirtilli- Pork medallions with blueberry sauce
• Bavarese al rosmarino- Rosmary custard

                

After having talked for a while, our conversation reduced to comments on the food and mumbling of enjoyment as we gathered the strength for each plate. Finally, once the busy Saturday night dinner service came to an end, I was better introduced to Urzula and Luca, and came to know their story: Urzula, who is from Chile, met Luca there years ago when he was working as a chef at a hotel. As fairy tales would go, they fell in love, and Urzula decided to come back to Italy with him, where they opened a tiny (yet perfectly charming) 5-table traditional Italian osteria. It is just the two of them most of the time; while Luca cooks away his creations in his personal kitchen, Urzula tends to front of the restaurant and hungry customers. That night, we helped with their routine, cleaning up the tables and setting them again, leaving everything ready for lunch the next day.

And it was then, while I put plates and wine glasses on each tavolo of the little restaurant in a most beautiful place in the north of Italy, that I could not help but envy their lifestyle. As unusual at it might sound, I could have done it forever. Stay working there, helping them run the place, go to the beach once in a while, watch the seasons change while living at a vacation hot spot. It was the first time I've had such a strong feeling of wanting to stay; of wanting to do what is done in movies- leave everything behind and open a little business in the middle of nowhere (but a nowhere that just happens to be gorgeous), and make a living. Of course there are moments when I dream of something else, maybe an endless bank account and all the glamour that comes with it, but it seems like the way Urzula and Luca live brings a different pleasure, an easier happiness. Where good food and having enough to do what you want with the people you're with is all that matters. Really, nothing else does, it just depends on what you thing "enough" is.

Anyway, talking with Pilar outside while they finished up, it was clear we were both feeling pretty complete. We got everything together and were brought to their apartment, where Urzula gave us a tour and showed us to our room, complete with a Chilean flag pillow to make us feel at home, before we both fell asleep.


Day two in Liguria was planned for visiting Cinque Terre, a series of five colorful towns built on the cliffs, along the coastline a few train stops from Sestri Levante. After a seemingly four star hotel breakfast of fruit, cereal, bread and coffee lovingly prepared by Urzula, we left eager to see the picturesque views. And yet, just at the station while waiting for the train, we were already having adventures...We decided to stop at the bathroom before starting the long walk through Cinque Terre, and only after waiting in a very long line, realized that the bathroom was basically a hole in the floor. Since we didn't know when we'd get another opportunity to go, we took our chances and went for it, but lets just say I was grossed out for the next half hour; my rubber flip flops on the wet floor did not make it easy, and I barely escaped what would have been an absolutely disgusting experience. Eww ew ew.

Monterosso

Fortunately having survived the bathroom, we went into the first town, called Monterosso and began our walk through the hills to Vernazza.  It ended up being mostly all uphill, up what seemed like 1000 steps...but the view made it more than bearable.  And despite the at times shriek-provoking lizards that scatter at your every move (Pili hates them), we found Vernazza and had our packed lunch in it's little harbor.

                   

Vernazza

From there, we decided to take a train directly to Riomaggiore (the last of the five towns), because the paths between the next town, Corniglia, and Manarola were closed. This way we could walk back to Manarola from there, along the dreamy Via del Amore, a long path bordering the side of the coast, famous for spurring marriage proposals amongst couples in love. Both without a second half present to currently propose to us, we admired the never-ending sea horizon as well as all the lovesick and declarative graffiti, before having an overpriced glass of wine at a little bar that hangs over the cliff along the way.

Riomaggiore Harbor

 

Via dell'Amore

View from our table at the bar

Manarola in the background

Around 6 we were in Manarola, and hungry, we caught the train back to Sestri Levante for what we thought was and early dinner with Urzula. Once Luca was home a couple hours later, Urzula appeared at the door asking if we were ready to eat. Haha. Why of course we were. We sat down and gladly ate a "light" second dinner of prosciutto and melon, fresh mozzarella and mixed salad.  And with the food came great conversation, including some funny stories about language misunderstandings; like ever so calmly saying you can't find a "picina" (little girl) at a store, instead of "piscina" (plastic pool), waiting while everyone but you hysterically looks for the missing girl; or ranting to your sons teacher, a nun, about how finding certain school supplies is such a "cazzo" (penis) instead of "caso" (case, in spanish). Oh, the importance of correct pronunciation. Who knows what I've said without even realizing it haha...

Portofino Bay

The next morning, we rolled out of bed a little later than planned, and after missing the first train, arrived in Santa Margharita, where we took a bus to neighboring Portofino, the exclusive, celebrity worthy destination of Liguria. It turns out, the name of this small hidden town  is very appropriate, since the translation of Portofino (or Puertofino in spanish) is basically "Fine (as in fine-dining) Port"...and fine it is. We walked around a little, looking into the nice shops and restaurants, then headed towards a little lighthouse at the top of the hill, always watched by surveillance cameras, past mysterious summer villas, one being the vacation home shared by designers Dolce and Gabbana.

A peek at D&G House

One of the D&G entrances

Pili at the Portofino's "spiaggia publica"

After a while, and seeing an especially mouthwatering lunch being served on the waterfront (a chef mixing spaghetti inside an actual wheel of cheese), we decided to go back to Santa Margharita for lunch. We settled on a little shop we found on a less busy street, where we had homemade eggplant parmesan. Delishh. Then dessert from a candy store, while we sat on the beach to wait for Urzula and Luca who were nearby and wanted to pick us up to show us some of the nearby attractions. After a sighting of the regional version of Paris Hilton, we went on a driving tour of Chiavari, Lavagna and the bay of Sestri Levante.

Back at their apartment again, it was time for dinner-this time Luca's pesto. Does it kind of seems like the days revolved around the food, or is it just me? Haha...Anyway, we all talked for hours and I couldn't help but think about their way of living again. They leave the house together, work together, then go home again, and somehow they've managed to still love each other, and make it look easy. I definitely admire what they have accomplished and can only hope to be so lucky! Altre volta, grazie Urzu e Luca!! :)

Bahia di Sestri Levante

The next day we went back to Rome, with another short stop in Pisa, where our shopping impulses (and having to run to the farthest track) almost caused us to miss our train. I can't say I was too excited to be home this time, because our trip was so much fun and I would have happily extended my visit, however I can't complain too much when "home" is Rome. There's always something to do here...