Day 123- Italian Things

Not in a great mood. It's really draining to be judged by people...I don't understand why there's this need to impose or force certain ideas on you, opinions of this or that.  Why can't I just think what I think and be left alone. Everyone has a reason for the way they are, everyone has positive things to contribute to the world...no one is perfect, no one knows everything. So just let people do what they do and like what they like.

Haha anyway...I thought I'd write a little to clear my head.

Since I've been back in Rome, it has been somewhat busy, in the best of ways...just enjoying a variety of all things Italian that have become part of my routine. I finally had some company running. Paqui decided to muster up the strength after a long day's work (brava) and we jogged together by the river. Thank god she's not one of those people that tries to have a conversation while running because...um, no. So it was good.

I also got some great news. First, Marta is staying at the apartment for more time! She was originally going to be leaving at the end of June, but now she stays through July. AND she got a job in Greece that she wanted for after here, which is so exciting. Woohoo. And second, I found out I'll be having a most special visitor in July...my boyfriend, Carlos, finally got his tickets, so after a while without seeing him I get to show off and be sexy with my Italian and plump him up with all the food here, so we can be fat and happy together! Haha. Plans for Sicily and the Amalfi Coast are in the works too...Can't wait! :)

Besides that, last Sunday, Valerio, Mary, their friend Cecco, and I, decided to leave Rome for lunch to try and get away from the heat (although to no prevail).  After driving up a long windy country road, past beautiful hillside views, we ended up at the cutest little mideveal town called Tolfa, almost 600 years old. There, we pulled up to a restaurant we found online, called "Da Buzzico", and were quickly pleased with the food. First we were surprised with a complementary appetizer, called "La Triste" (the sad one), due to its "meager" ingredients. As the hefty white bearded owner explained to us, the poor would make a broth with any small fish they could find and dip some bread in it. Later, the dish developed and is now a little more refined, consisting of a broth, a piece of bread in the middle and sardines on top, with herbs and spices sprinkled over it. As "sad" as it might have been at one point, "La Triste" was a great start to our meal. After some delicious cheeses with honey, and toasted olive-oiled bread that we rubbed with fresh garlic ourselves (yum), I thought I would never be able to finish my order.  However, when my tagliatelle with wild boar arrived, and Mr. Beard shaved fresh truffle over it, it was clear that I would be returning an empty plate. As did everyone else. Soo so good. A lunch for the books...I am definitely in the land of wine and fine dining.

Before we left, Valerio couldn't resist trying some of the home made liquors, of course we joined in...my favorite: pomegranate liquor. Afterwards,we took a walk up and down the little alleys of the town and watched the hundreds of sparrows, apparently fond of the area, flying overhead like a mobile in a baby's crib.

Distant Tolfa

Then, during the week I saw some friends from Chile, Jesu and Montse, passing through for a few days during a trip. We met at the Vatican, had lunch and went on to more tourist attractions-Piazza del Popolo, Via del Corso, Piazza Spagna- and had a much needed gelato (no joke, 35°C/99°F) at the famous and traditional gelateria Giolitti. It's a must have when in Rome. So far (since I've only tried 3 flavors), I have to say it seems like their sorbet equivalent gelatos are much better than creamy flavors. My mango, Montse's sour cherry and Jesu's watermelon all stood out as amazzinngg. I'll be going back to find out more, don't worry.

Later that day, we met up near Campo dei Fiori to have dinner and some drinks, and it turns out we chose a good night, because Italy was playing in the Eurocup (and won) so everyone was out watching the game and excited about the victory "degli Azzurri". After the food and wine, on our way to Trastevere, we saw something set up on Lungotevere, along the Tiber..so we went down to check it out. It turns out that for summer, they set up bars, restaurants, and stands, creating a type of river boardwalk. We met some people there, had a few drinks...I bought some candy (inevitable) and then called it night. As we walked to our bus stops, we couldn't resist the fresh watermelon and fruit being sold on the side of the road, so we each bought a piece and went home with our hands all sticky from the juice. Perfect ending to a summer night, though.

The next day I couldn't bring myself to leave the house again in the heat (have I mention HOW HOT it has been getting!?).  But once the sun went down, I left to meet up with Jesu and Montse again, in Trastevere to show them the bars and typical nightlife there. We had dinner and a jug of margaritas outside, explored the area a bit and then decided to go home early, since they would be leaving early the next day for Florence. I had so much fun with them here, I wish they could have stayed longer...but I'm glad we could get together and that we actually made it happen without cell phones or anything. I'm actually surprised we were successful in meeting up three times at the right time and place. Take a minute to remember what it was like without cell phones, you know those things we use all day, for everything now. Technology, huh?

Friday brought more sun, so I decided to take advantage of it and tanned a little...and then that night I cheerfully hopped on the back of Mary's motorcycle and we drove to Isola Tiberina, a little island where they have the "boardwalk" set up on the other side of the river. Close by, Maria pointed out what's left of Rome's oldest bridge, and despite the nice ambiance, had an unfortunately disappointing cocktail. After talking a while we decided to spare ourselves more bug bites and were enjoying the breeze on the motorcycle so much, that Mary decided to take me on a little tour. Could I be living in a movie any more?? We went to Aventine Hill (one of the seven hills of Rome)past some beautiful churches, to see "Il Giardino degli Aranci" (The Orange Garden), a private garden, with a secret-bearing keyhole. I can't tell you what you see if you look through it, and you might find it less than remarkable if you go, but for me it was so unexpected...maybe even a little romantic? The whole ride was the best...I feel like riding on motorcycles is one of those things people in Rome just get used to, that it's just part of their routine, so it loses its charm and  becomes normal. Like the Andes Mountains do in Santiago. I don't think Maria realizes how exciting it is to be barely holding on to the back of a bike, riding through Rome, looking around like you've never seen the world before, trying to see everything and to hold on to that moment forever. It's such a special feeling that will make the night unforgettable to me. So even if you might not fully understand what it is you've given me-Thanks Mary :).

So that basically brings me up to date...Tomorrow is Pasquina's birthday-actually today by now (HAPPY BIRTHDAY PAQUI!!!), so we decided to have a dinner all together, the perfect occasion for Valerio to teach me how to make...get ready...PIZZA. Yes, the mother of all Italian lessons. I might not be able to sleep tonight. Haha. So I will soon be writing a very special post. Until then...

Day 93

Well another week has gone by! Way too fast. I won't even get into the whole time flies philosophy because I know everyone knows it all too well.

So during this past week, I've been busy. The Notte dei Musei didn't end up happening because of a school bombing in South Italy...a girl was killed and officials thought the mafia might be involved. I have to admit, before coming here the whole mafia thing was very Hollywood to me. Something dangerous and glamorous, "la famiglia".  But here it is a sad reality, and unfortunately things like the bombing happen because of it...Hopefully, sometime soon, it will only be in the movies.

So we stayed home, but the day brought many things: I had my first ride on the back of a motorcycle in Rome. It was magical. Haha. Maybe not the typically imagined ride arms around a dreamy Italian boy, but I was happy to go with Maria to get some wine. (Yes, we are always drinking wine-why wouldn't we when it's this good?) Anyway, I coolly hung on to the back of the seat, wind in my face, as she zipped back and forth between cars to the store...and back at the house, with my helmet hair and bottles in hand, I was fully satisfied by my first Italian moto-experience.

Combine ingredients, knead, roll, fill, bake.

Then with Pasqui I learned to make a Crostata, which I quickly figured out is a sort of pie, but with equal amounts of crust and filling. The outside is a crumbly short crust pastry, and the filling was different jams in one, and Nutella in the other. Initially we were both "going to make the Crostatas", but it turned out I just watched, as Pasquina oh-so-precisely created the lovely dessert. Of course, I wrote down everything...it's a good thing they have Nutella in Chile.

Of course later that night we went out to eat pizza, I am happy to say at Est! Est! Est! again. This time the meal was complete with a variety of fried eats, including mozzarella, fiori di zuccha (zucchini blossoms), and cod, before we each downed our delectable pizzas. It had also been a while since I laughed so much until it hurt, so the night couldn't have ended better.

Then, the week began; I went on a small adventure to find the last book I have to read for English, did a few circles around the Termini neighborhood, eagerly went to finally buy a pair of shoes I had been watching for a long time, then let down because they didn't have them anymore...The week went on, I ran 5 kilometers and got really excited about it because I don't usually run that much; and also thought about how it's ironic that the most fit I've been in a looong time is while in Italy. Hmm. I had a revelation about my advances in my new language, when I realized I was counting sit ups in Italian. And when I was complimented on these advances by my lovely "coinquilini" (roommates). I went grocery shopping, looked for some things for a few recipes I wanted to try, found some, didn't find others...it rained yet again. And the week ended.

Giardino del Quirinale

Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore

Palazzo del Quirinale (Italian White House)

360 of Via delle Cuattro Fontane (fountain on each corner of the intersection)

And today was a particularly great day. You know those days, when once it's over you just kind of feel good and think "Great day"? I woke up a little earlier than usual and walked to the store for ingredients to try cooking a quiche, and came back with yes, eggs and cheese, but also shoes. Then, the zucchini quiche came out perfect. It was so easy so I know I can totally make it again, and everyone liked it. Points for me. After lunch, Marta, Valerio, Maria and I just sort of sat around eating Pecorino and fava beans, some olives, and talked (only in Italian now), and laughed and shared funny stories. And then we decided since it was such a beautiful day to go get some gelato (why is it that I can't just call it ice-cream here?) at the beach. And somehow it was suggested that I drive, so I did. Not so casual since people here are crazy drivers, but I was excited and no one died, so I'm good. Once in Ostia, we found a gelateria, chose our flavors, and walked over to the pier...

Valerio, Marta and I

Vale and Mary

and...for a taste of the moment:

Then the beach; this time I put my feet in the water. I'm happy that what Maria said was cold was definitely not for me...the water was nice; so mild and clear. I can't wait to go back soon with a bathing suit on! And although it's only actually spring, people are definitely ready for summer; the beach was crowded, everyone herding back home sandy and wet after a nice lazy day at the beach. Of course I also realized how in need I am of a tan, so I'll soon be invading Marta's space, laying out on her balcony this week. Thanks Martita :). Anyway, on the way back, there was a lot of traffic, but despite the slow inching along and monotonous stick and clutch-work, it was so nice out that I even enjoyed that. And the best part of everything, was when I came home and walked into my room with the window open, this overwhelming smell of lushness and freshness and warmth totally hit me. Suuummer. It always happens to me at some point; where all of a sudden you recognize that smell...and you realize it means sun, fruit, color, vacation...it made me smile. So now I'm ready too.

I went back to the kitchen and Valerio was already making dinner, which the four of us had on the balcony. What else could I really have hoped for when I woke up today? Good weather, good food, amazing company. If nothing else, I want a life filled with that.

Day 83- Centro Storico

Well I'm a lot happier than the other day. Yesterday I was determined to validate my understanding of the Italian language to myself so I went out on a mission. For Parmesano, Prosciutto di Parma and VINO. So I went to a nearby "salumeria" and asked the stout white-haired man behind the counter for the goods.  The conversation went better than I thought.  He understood everything I said, promptly gave me a variety of things to try before handing over my choices.  I even got a compliment for my Italian. I did have to point silently to the olives though...I still can't remember the word for them. Anyway. After that I walked around for a while...I have to do an entry on my neighborhood sometime, which I am so happy to live in, by the way. I'm hoping how much I spent and that I brought home food doesn't have everything to do with the fact that I was in a better mood...?

Also, I forgot to mention that I got a 27/30 on my Spanish Lit exam so...it's a good start! The whole thing was nerve wrecking though, the teacher totally grilled me on some topics. But anyway I'm not complaining. So long as I do at least that good in English and Italian. I have to study.

Speaking of which, I love how now that I'll have more time because my classes and exams will be over, ironically so will all of my shows...Oops. I hear Grey's Anatomy's finale was a tearjerker...but I'm waiting for Maria to see it. I hope she doesn't mind me bawling, because there's a 95% chance I will. Oh my.

One of the purchases I made yesterday was of a new travel guide for Rome. Yup. Lonely Planet: Encounter Rome. So today, after running I was ready to put it to good use. At 12, I left the house and took the bus/tram trip to Piazza Navona where I met Daniela.  And after circling around a few blocks looking for the recommended Panini place, Lo Zozzono, we had lunch. Basically, we wandered around Centro Storico, getting lost (like the book said we should!), until making our way to the Jewish Ghetto.  Here, surrounded by kosher bakeries and restaurants, we found the archeological site of the Teatro di Marcello and Portico d'Ottavia. And let me tell you this is why I love Rome.  You think you know what it's all about.  You've seen the movies, you've seen the post cards.  You know what the Colosseum looks like. And I've lived here for almost three months now (woaa...) and I go past some of the most amazing landmarks without being dazed.  I walk along the same streets thinking I've seen most of it.  No way.  Rome is a city of discovery.  It's about being in the same place a hundred times and still finding new things.  Granted, this was the first time at this site, but I had driven and walked past it on my way to something else, many times. But now, I got up close, and it has to be one of my favorite historical sites so far. In short:

Portico d'Ottivia

The 1st-century BC Portico d'Ottavia was first a temple complex, built by Augustus in the name of his sister, Octavia.  After various fires over the years, it was restored using foreign marble and was adorned by many fresco paintings and now famous works of art. In the medieval era, the area and structure was later used as a fish market, which lasted up to the end of the 1800's. This role is remembered by the name of the annexed church, partly formed by its columns, Chiesa di Sant'Angelo in Pescheria.

Corridor of Teatro di Marcello

The "dramatic fusion of eras" (as Lonely Planet puts it) continues at the Teatro di Marcello, where a Renaissance palace by Baldassare Peruzzi is incorporated onto the ruins of the theater, that had also been built by Augustus, in the last years of the Roman Republic.

So, nothing crazy or anything...but as I was reading about it, the architectural diversity became completely obvious and I could imagine what each era was like. First, the Portico d'Ottavia being a huge Roman Building, where important people in their togas would channel in and out of; then a fish Market, where Romans would compare the size of their fish and promote their catch on big slabs of marble taken from the monument itself; then part of a holy entrance to a church. You could just see centuries going by before your eyes like some sort of history movie. I just loved how each part corresponding to another time period was molded together to make a new structure...like they melted into each other over time. You look at the theater, and there is clearly a contrast in materials and styles, but there's also something about it that looks so natural.

Teatro di Marcello

We took it all in for a few minutes, then walked through the streets of "Il Ghetto" for a gelato, to finalize our outing of the day. So as of now, I am thoroughly satisfied with another day here, overseas. Tomorrow is La Notte dei Musei (Museum Night), which means that museums all over Rome are open for the night, for free. So we'll see what that brings. And Sunday, the plan is to go get lunch in Orvieto, a town near Umbria a ways off from Rome.  Marta went and had some sort of stuffed pasta dish with melted pecorino cheese at a trattoria, and I hear they have rabbit too, so that's enough to convince me.

After a long day, it's off to bed for me...