Day 125- Making PIZZA

piz·za   [peet-suh]

noun

a flat, open-faced baked pie of Italian origin, consisting of a thin layer of bread dough topped with spiced tomato sauce and cheese, often garnished with anchovies, sausage slices, mushrooms, etc. (Wikipedia)

AKA a slice of heaven, Italy's gift to the world, a food eaten by 94% of the U.S. ....and the newest of my learned recipes:

1 kg flour

1/2 lt water, 20 g of salt, and a pinch of sugar

Add the 12 g of diluted yeast, and a spoonful of olive oil, until it looks like...

This!
Then leave your dough in a warm spot, and while you're
waiting for the dough to rise, make your toppings.

Canned peeled tomatoes for the sauce.

Then add oregano, a few spoons of olive oil and salt to taste.

Sauce, fresh mozzarella, and shaved mushrooms.

After about 3 hours your dough should look like this :)

Divide the dough into 4 balls.

Roll out your pizza to the desired thickness, adding flour when needed.

Play a little...

Put on the sauce in circles, moving from the middle towards the outside of the dough.
Then put on the rest of your toppings, all but the fresh mozzarella.
Bake the pizza in a 250 degree oven, or hotter, until  the bottom is golden brown.

When there is 2-3 minutes left of cooking time, throw on the fresh mozzarella
and put the pizza back in, until it's melted and bubbling.

Yum. Admire your work and enjoyyy.
(Recipe makes 4 pizzas)

So Pasquina's birthday was a success, but not only because of the pizza of course. It was nice to have dinner all together, and she seemed happy, which is the whole point. So yeah, I'm now officially the youngest one in the house.

Birthday champagne

Last night we watched Italy play against Germany in the Eurocup. Italy won 2-1, so that means we're going to the finals!!! The game is on Sunday so we'll see how it goes. Hopefully it will be a little cooler out, although doubtful...yesterday even with the fan pointed at us out on the balcony at 9 at night we were all pretty much melting. Ridiculous.

I had no success in falling asleep with the heat either so I watched a movie, Warrior. If you can bear with all the fighting, I highly recommend it. It was reallly really good and I was of course bawling by the end. Not at all like me...

Today is a holiday, San Pietro and Paulo are celebrated, so everyone's off from work and home. This weekend I was hoping to take some pictures of the neighborhood, and maybe finally get down to the Vatican on Sunday to see the Pope's greeting from his tiny window. AND, Maria and I have impulsively booked two nights for next weekend at a little B&B in Cortona, Tuscany (Under the Tuscan Sun location), which I know is going to be amazing. I have always wanted to go to one of the small towns in the middle of the Tuscan hillside, with the flowers, and the views, and the food. So there is definitely that to look forward to.

And just like that, June is almost over. One more month. Let's not go there.

Day 123- Italian Things

Not in a great mood. It's really draining to be judged by people...I don't understand why there's this need to impose or force certain ideas on you, opinions of this or that.  Why can't I just think what I think and be left alone. Everyone has a reason for the way they are, everyone has positive things to contribute to the world...no one is perfect, no one knows everything. So just let people do what they do and like what they like.

Haha anyway...I thought I'd write a little to clear my head.

Since I've been back in Rome, it has been somewhat busy, in the best of ways...just enjoying a variety of all things Italian that have become part of my routine. I finally had some company running. Paqui decided to muster up the strength after a long day's work (brava) and we jogged together by the river. Thank god she's not one of those people that tries to have a conversation while running because...um, no. So it was good.

I also got some great news. First, Marta is staying at the apartment for more time! She was originally going to be leaving at the end of June, but now she stays through July. AND she got a job in Greece that she wanted for after here, which is so exciting. Woohoo. And second, I found out I'll be having a most special visitor in July...my boyfriend, Carlos, finally got his tickets, so after a while without seeing him I get to show off and be sexy with my Italian and plump him up with all the food here, so we can be fat and happy together! Haha. Plans for Sicily and the Amalfi Coast are in the works too...Can't wait! :)

Besides that, last Sunday, Valerio, Mary, their friend Cecco, and I, decided to leave Rome for lunch to try and get away from the heat (although to no prevail).  After driving up a long windy country road, past beautiful hillside views, we ended up at the cutest little mideveal town called Tolfa, almost 600 years old. There, we pulled up to a restaurant we found online, called "Da Buzzico", and were quickly pleased with the food. First we were surprised with a complementary appetizer, called "La Triste" (the sad one), due to its "meager" ingredients. As the hefty white bearded owner explained to us, the poor would make a broth with any small fish they could find and dip some bread in it. Later, the dish developed and is now a little more refined, consisting of a broth, a piece of bread in the middle and sardines on top, with herbs and spices sprinkled over it. As "sad" as it might have been at one point, "La Triste" was a great start to our meal. After some delicious cheeses with honey, and toasted olive-oiled bread that we rubbed with fresh garlic ourselves (yum), I thought I would never be able to finish my order.  However, when my tagliatelle with wild boar arrived, and Mr. Beard shaved fresh truffle over it, it was clear that I would be returning an empty plate. As did everyone else. Soo so good. A lunch for the books...I am definitely in the land of wine and fine dining.

Before we left, Valerio couldn't resist trying some of the home made liquors, of course we joined in...my favorite: pomegranate liquor. Afterwards,we took a walk up and down the little alleys of the town and watched the hundreds of sparrows, apparently fond of the area, flying overhead like a mobile in a baby's crib.

Distant Tolfa

Then, during the week I saw some friends from Chile, Jesu and Montse, passing through for a few days during a trip. We met at the Vatican, had lunch and went on to more tourist attractions-Piazza del Popolo, Via del Corso, Piazza Spagna- and had a much needed gelato (no joke, 35°C/99°F) at the famous and traditional gelateria Giolitti. It's a must have when in Rome. So far (since I've only tried 3 flavors), I have to say it seems like their sorbet equivalent gelatos are much better than creamy flavors. My mango, Montse's sour cherry and Jesu's watermelon all stood out as amazzinngg. I'll be going back to find out more, don't worry.

Later that day, we met up near Campo dei Fiori to have dinner and some drinks, and it turns out we chose a good night, because Italy was playing in the Eurocup (and won) so everyone was out watching the game and excited about the victory "degli Azzurri". After the food and wine, on our way to Trastevere, we saw something set up on Lungotevere, along the Tiber..so we went down to check it out. It turns out that for summer, they set up bars, restaurants, and stands, creating a type of river boardwalk. We met some people there, had a few drinks...I bought some candy (inevitable) and then called it night. As we walked to our bus stops, we couldn't resist the fresh watermelon and fruit being sold on the side of the road, so we each bought a piece and went home with our hands all sticky from the juice. Perfect ending to a summer night, though.

The next day I couldn't bring myself to leave the house again in the heat (have I mention HOW HOT it has been getting!?).  But once the sun went down, I left to meet up with Jesu and Montse again, in Trastevere to show them the bars and typical nightlife there. We had dinner and a jug of margaritas outside, explored the area a bit and then decided to go home early, since they would be leaving early the next day for Florence. I had so much fun with them here, I wish they could have stayed longer...but I'm glad we could get together and that we actually made it happen without cell phones or anything. I'm actually surprised we were successful in meeting up three times at the right time and place. Take a minute to remember what it was like without cell phones, you know those things we use all day, for everything now. Technology, huh?

Friday brought more sun, so I decided to take advantage of it and tanned a little...and then that night I cheerfully hopped on the back of Mary's motorcycle and we drove to Isola Tiberina, a little island where they have the "boardwalk" set up on the other side of the river. Close by, Maria pointed out what's left of Rome's oldest bridge, and despite the nice ambiance, had an unfortunately disappointing cocktail. After talking a while we decided to spare ourselves more bug bites and were enjoying the breeze on the motorcycle so much, that Mary decided to take me on a little tour. Could I be living in a movie any more?? We went to Aventine Hill (one of the seven hills of Rome)past some beautiful churches, to see "Il Giardino degli Aranci" (The Orange Garden), a private garden, with a secret-bearing keyhole. I can't tell you what you see if you look through it, and you might find it less than remarkable if you go, but for me it was so unexpected...maybe even a little romantic? The whole ride was the best...I feel like riding on motorcycles is one of those things people in Rome just get used to, that it's just part of their routine, so it loses its charm and  becomes normal. Like the Andes Mountains do in Santiago. I don't think Maria realizes how exciting it is to be barely holding on to the back of a bike, riding through Rome, looking around like you've never seen the world before, trying to see everything and to hold on to that moment forever. It's such a special feeling that will make the night unforgettable to me. So even if you might not fully understand what it is you've given me-Thanks Mary :).

So that basically brings me up to date...Tomorrow is Pasquina's birthday-actually today by now (HAPPY BIRTHDAY PAQUI!!!), so we decided to have a dinner all together, the perfect occasion for Valerio to teach me how to make...get ready...PIZZA. Yes, the mother of all Italian lessons. I might not be able to sleep tonight. Haha. So I will soon be writing a very special post. Until then...

Day 118- Liguria: Beaches, Le Cinque Terre, and Food

After stopping in Pisa to change trains, we arrived in Sestri Levante.  But not for long. In fact, only about 3 minutes. To save time, Pilar's mom's friends offered to meet us at the station so we could drop off our things and quickly jump back on the train to go straight on through to Santa Margharita for some much desired beach time.

When we found the absolutely beautiful beach, we both scooted onto the tiny hand towel we had in our suitcase and finally found ourselves lying in paradise. Pili without hesitation and in no more than 5 minutes was in the Ligurian Sea, clear and tepid, or boiling compared to Chile's Pacific water. After a while I was in too, looking around dumbfounded by the utopian-like surroundings (including what can only be described as an Italian god, casually sprawled in front of us).

As the heat of the sun began to fade, we gathered our things and walked around town for a little, window shopping...

Until we decided it was time to head back to Sestri for dinner at Osteria Gioitta, owned and managed by our new hosts.  Here, Pilar and I succumbed to their overwhelming hospitality and delicious cooking, over a 6 course meal.  Menu? Just don't drool...

• Proscioutto e melone- Prosciutto and cantaloupe melon
• Fagottino di taleggio con marmelata di tropeo- Fried Teleggio cheese with tropeo onion marmalade
• Caprini con semi di coriandolo glassa di aceto balsamico- Goat cheese with coriander seeds and balsamic reduction
•  Mezzelune di magro con punta da asparragi e gorgonzola- Pork filled pasta with gorgonzola and asparagus tips
• Boconcino de maiale con sala di mirtilli- Pork medallions with blueberry sauce
• Bavarese al rosmarino- Rosmary custard

                

After having talked for a while, our conversation reduced to comments on the food and mumbling of enjoyment as we gathered the strength for each plate. Finally, once the busy Saturday night dinner service came to an end, I was better introduced to Urzula and Luca, and came to know their story: Urzula, who is from Chile, met Luca there years ago when he was working as a chef at a hotel. As fairy tales would go, they fell in love, and Urzula decided to come back to Italy with him, where they opened a tiny (yet perfectly charming) 5-table traditional Italian osteria. It is just the two of them most of the time; while Luca cooks away his creations in his personal kitchen, Urzula tends to front of the restaurant and hungry customers. That night, we helped with their routine, cleaning up the tables and setting them again, leaving everything ready for lunch the next day.

And it was then, while I put plates and wine glasses on each tavolo of the little restaurant in a most beautiful place in the north of Italy, that I could not help but envy their lifestyle. As unusual at it might sound, I could have done it forever. Stay working there, helping them run the place, go to the beach once in a while, watch the seasons change while living at a vacation hot spot. It was the first time I've had such a strong feeling of wanting to stay; of wanting to do what is done in movies- leave everything behind and open a little business in the middle of nowhere (but a nowhere that just happens to be gorgeous), and make a living. Of course there are moments when I dream of something else, maybe an endless bank account and all the glamour that comes with it, but it seems like the way Urzula and Luca live brings a different pleasure, an easier happiness. Where good food and having enough to do what you want with the people you're with is all that matters. Really, nothing else does, it just depends on what you thing "enough" is.

Anyway, talking with Pilar outside while they finished up, it was clear we were both feeling pretty complete. We got everything together and were brought to their apartment, where Urzula gave us a tour and showed us to our room, complete with a Chilean flag pillow to make us feel at home, before we both fell asleep.


Day two in Liguria was planned for visiting Cinque Terre, a series of five colorful towns built on the cliffs, along the coastline a few train stops from Sestri Levante. After a seemingly four star hotel breakfast of fruit, cereal, bread and coffee lovingly prepared by Urzula, we left eager to see the picturesque views. And yet, just at the station while waiting for the train, we were already having adventures...We decided to stop at the bathroom before starting the long walk through Cinque Terre, and only after waiting in a very long line, realized that the bathroom was basically a hole in the floor. Since we didn't know when we'd get another opportunity to go, we took our chances and went for it, but lets just say I was grossed out for the next half hour; my rubber flip flops on the wet floor did not make it easy, and I barely escaped what would have been an absolutely disgusting experience. Eww ew ew.

Monterosso

Fortunately having survived the bathroom, we went into the first town, called Monterosso and began our walk through the hills to Vernazza.  It ended up being mostly all uphill, up what seemed like 1000 steps...but the view made it more than bearable.  And despite the at times shriek-provoking lizards that scatter at your every move (Pili hates them), we found Vernazza and had our packed lunch in it's little harbor.

                   

Vernazza

From there, we decided to take a train directly to Riomaggiore (the last of the five towns), because the paths between the next town, Corniglia, and Manarola were closed. This way we could walk back to Manarola from there, along the dreamy Via del Amore, a long path bordering the side of the coast, famous for spurring marriage proposals amongst couples in love. Both without a second half present to currently propose to us, we admired the never-ending sea horizon as well as all the lovesick and declarative graffiti, before having an overpriced glass of wine at a little bar that hangs over the cliff along the way.

Riomaggiore Harbor

 

Via dell'Amore

View from our table at the bar

Manarola in the background

Around 6 we were in Manarola, and hungry, we caught the train back to Sestri Levante for what we thought was and early dinner with Urzula. Once Luca was home a couple hours later, Urzula appeared at the door asking if we were ready to eat. Haha. Why of course we were. We sat down and gladly ate a "light" second dinner of prosciutto and melon, fresh mozzarella and mixed salad.  And with the food came great conversation, including some funny stories about language misunderstandings; like ever so calmly saying you can't find a "picina" (little girl) at a store, instead of "piscina" (plastic pool), waiting while everyone but you hysterically looks for the missing girl; or ranting to your sons teacher, a nun, about how finding certain school supplies is such a "cazzo" (penis) instead of "caso" (case, in spanish). Oh, the importance of correct pronunciation. Who knows what I've said without even realizing it haha...

Portofino Bay

The next morning, we rolled out of bed a little later than planned, and after missing the first train, arrived in Santa Margharita, where we took a bus to neighboring Portofino, the exclusive, celebrity worthy destination of Liguria. It turns out, the name of this small hidden town  is very appropriate, since the translation of Portofino (or Puertofino in spanish) is basically "Fine (as in fine-dining) Port"...and fine it is. We walked around a little, looking into the nice shops and restaurants, then headed towards a little lighthouse at the top of the hill, always watched by surveillance cameras, past mysterious summer villas, one being the vacation home shared by designers Dolce and Gabbana.

A peek at D&G House

One of the D&G entrances

Pili at the Portofino's "spiaggia publica"

After a while, and seeing an especially mouthwatering lunch being served on the waterfront (a chef mixing spaghetti inside an actual wheel of cheese), we decided to go back to Santa Margharita for lunch. We settled on a little shop we found on a less busy street, where we had homemade eggplant parmesan. Delishh. Then dessert from a candy store, while we sat on the beach to wait for Urzula and Luca who were nearby and wanted to pick us up to show us some of the nearby attractions. After a sighting of the regional version of Paris Hilton, we went on a driving tour of Chiavari, Lavagna and the bay of Sestri Levante.

Back at their apartment again, it was time for dinner-this time Luca's pesto. Does it kind of seems like the days revolved around the food, or is it just me? Haha...Anyway, we all talked for hours and I couldn't help but think about their way of living again. They leave the house together, work together, then go home again, and somehow they've managed to still love each other, and make it look easy. I definitely admire what they have accomplished and can only hope to be so lucky! Altre volta, grazie Urzu e Luca!! :)

Bahia di Sestri Levante

The next day we went back to Rome, with another short stop in Pisa, where our shopping impulses (and having to run to the farthest track) almost caused us to miss our train. I can't say I was too excited to be home this time, because our trip was so much fun and I would have happily extended my visit, however I can't complain too much when "home" is Rome. There's always something to do here...