Day 116- Firenze: Heat, Leather, and La Bistecca

Back in Rome again...Each trip here in Italy gets better.

Florence and Liguria was as close to perfect as it could get. On top of the beauty of the places themselves, the travelling was smooth sailing...everything we planned worked out, we saw what we wanted to see...no regrets.

Thursday, after dragging my overpacked bag a few blocks, I met Pilar at the school's international relations office to do the last of the official paperwork. Ironically for the first time since I've been in that office, things were quickly taken care of. No tears over never seeing the woman in charge again though. 

From there, we caught a bus to Termini Station, but not without a little old lady criticizing my outfit first. In a strong Italian accent she quite efficiently humiliated me, pointing at my skirt, saying "No so short in city! No so shooorrt!"(It was not that short). Not knowing weather to apologize or what, we got off the bus, and yhen caught our train to Florence. This time, the train had little cabins you could sit it, so we got out or food and had our little picnic in the train while enjoying the amazing and very Tuscan view, complete with beautiful villas and thousands of Sunflowers. Like a dream...

A few hours later, we were there, and easily caught the right bus to Julie's house. Julie is my mom's friend's daughter, and last time I was in Italy (about 11 years ago) we also visited her in Florence where she was studying at the time. In fact, I hadn't seen her since...so it was a nice re-encounter. How quickly time passes...Now, after being in New York for a few years, she is designing shoes (I know) and beginning to develop her own company. Of course Pilar and I immediately wanted to exchange lives with her. Not bad. After she so kindly welcomed us into her very charming apartment, we were off again to see the city.

Not only is it charming, but Julie's apartment is also in a great location, with the Boboli Gardens as a backyard, and only a few blocks away from the Palazzo Pitti.  Walking through the area, we got a feel for the small and colorful streets of Firenze, until reaching the Arno River and historic Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in the city. After collapsing and being rebuilt numerous times, it became a goldsmith market in 1953 and has been filled with gold and jewelry shops ever since; shops with displays we both could only gawk at on our student-abroad allowance. I might just have to go back for a ring one day though. I also discovered that it is said that the concept and term "bankruptcy" originated here. When a merchant couldn't pay his debts, the table or "banco" on which he sold his things was broken, "rotto" by soldiers; now without a table, the merchant was not able to sell anything. Banco rotto; bankrupt. Cool huh?

So after imagining ourselves covered in expensive Florentine jewelry one day, we continued on to Piazza della Signoria, and the Galleria dell'Academia, where famous David (with that great bod of his) gazes into the horizon. And they definitely know how to set the mood for tourists; as the sun began to set and the orange light covered the plaza, crowds gathered around a guitar player, strumming calming Italian music, and aromas began flowing from the restaurants, opening for aperitivos and dinner. We decided to keep moving, and saw the Duomo or the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, complete with Giotto's famous bell tower, and the octagonal Bapistry with its beautiful bronze doors. After that, we began to make our way back, going through Piazza dalla Repubblica, and crossing Ponte Vecchio again, with perfect timing for the breathtaking sunset.

              

   

 It didn't seem like anything could be missing, but our stomachs soon began to disagree, so we met up with Julie (who rode in on her bike-Italian style) at a great little piazza frequented by locals, and chose a small osteria for our gratinated cheese gnocchi dinner. On that note: both Pilar and I had originally decided to get half portions of two different things so we could try a variety of foods, however when our first dish of gnocchi smothered in steaming melted cheese and truffle oil arrived...thank god we could cancel the other things. Not a normal half portion. So if you're ever in that position, you might want to clarify what the half portion looks like. Unless of course you're up for it. Which I would have been if it had been anything else but gnocchi-the bomb of all pastas...

After the delicious dinner and great conversation, we walked home, I was tempted by Julie's digital scale and weighed myself for the first time since I've been here (why I would decide to do so after the dinner I had just had is beyond me), and went to bed, maybe the slightest bit disturbed. Haha...Still, nothing would keep me awake after our long and busy day, so I could only think about a pretend future diet for about 3 minutes. Too bad.

Friday morning began bright and early with some necessary coffee (thanks again Julie!). We headed for the Uffizi Gallery, which holds the works of da Vinci, Giotto and some of Boticelli's greatest pieces (Birth of Venus and Primavera amongst others). We were hoping to reserve tickets for later since I read the line was never-ending, so we asked about it and they directed us towards a different ticket window. Since reserving turned out to be more expensive, and the line wasn't too bad, we started to go back...when I see Pilar near the regular ticket booth, behind only about 6 people waving me over. So we get our tickets in under 5 minutes and as we're going through security we realized that little did we know we had just cut a cue of a lottt more people that we couldn't see from inside. Oops. The whole thing was innocent, but I thought it was great that we totally cheated the famous Uffizi lines. As I said...everything about this trip worked out great for us.


After spending enough time in the museum, we went towards the San Lorenzo leather market Julie told us about, which ended up being crazy. Walls and booths covered in all things leather. Bags, Belts, Gloves, Wallets, Jackets, Accessories...everything, and in every color. And so much cheaper than in Rome. It was a little overwhelming because it just kept getting better. So hard choosing just one beautiful leather purse.

Finally tired of wandering the market, we happened to stumble upon a little restaurant in the midst of all the Italian "pelle", offering what we had been searching for for lunch-the highly recommended, you can't leave Florence without eating one- Bistecca Fiorentina. Basically a grilled T bone. Now nothing beats the barbecues we have in Chile, but after not having one for the past 4 months, and barely having any red meat at all...the Bistecca was very well recieved by myself and my co-chilean diner.

After lunch, we decided to escape the heat (which by the way was borderline stifling, no less than 31 degrees Celsius all day) and freshen up at Julie's. We were originally trying to get to a wine festival there was at Palazzo Pitti, but there was only a couple hours left of it while we were ready...Thereforeee we bought our own bottle and went to sit outside the palace instead. And that was it...completely surrendered to relaxation, wine on a warm summer night, walking around, pausing to listen to more guitar music-one guy even played the Godfather theme song-and some noteworthy gelato to finish it off. It was definitely one for the books, great night in Italy. <3

All in all, I loved Florence all over again. I was telling Pilar that I feel like most of my memories of Italy seem to be images of Florence...it's almost seems like the essence of Italy in many ways; the postcard sights, the food, the shopping, the balmy Mediterranean nights. From a foreigner's perspective, it's also smaller, and much easier to conquer than Rome.  After only two nights there I felt like I knew my way around some places...and like I could stay forever. It is in Tuscany after all-you can't really go wrong.

Saturday morning, I decided to get up extra early and take a last stroll along the main streets, casually ending up at the leather market again (not with any intention at all of getting something). But even more than the purse I bought, I loved being out at that time of day...A place like Florence is obviously always full of tourists, and as I was walking I just kind of watched the true city wake up. On the way out, there were only a few people -locals- on the streets; shop owners beginning to unlock their stores, setting things up, people going to work. And then on the way back, there were already some tour guides out with their little flag up and the herd of people behind them.

Distracted by the glassy reflection of the river from Ponte Vecchio, I almost forgot the time, so I hurried home to get Pili and our bags, we said goodbye to Julie, and made our way to the station and to Sestri Levante in Liguria...

Day 110- Northbound

Another early morning...but this time not to study (done with that!), but to head north to Florence, and then Liguria. It's really nice out right now and I cannot believe how blessed I am to be here! :) I'll be staying in Florence for two nights at a friend of my mom's...take some time to look closely at the lovely David, eat some of the typical "bistecca", go to a few museums, and then head to Liguria with Pilar to a friend of her mom's. Who owns a restaurant. Come on. haha. There's even a small chance we'll get to Monaco, because her friend knows the area well. So, I'm sure many story's to come.

This past week, I finally finished up exams, and since then it has been a long tedious process of getting grades and making sure they are officially recorded in transcripts for Chile...more examples of how relaxed (and this time ineficient) they can be here. It's a good thing I'm relaxed as I am because if not it might not have gone as smoothly.

But it's mostly done, just had a last few things to do when I get back. So now I can concentrate on getting the most out of the last two months I have here in Italy before leaving-something I cannot imagine doing. I was able to celebrate the beginning of my summer vacation (which, yes I admit started months ago if I'm honest with myself), on Monday, at the party we had for Marta's birthday.  More yummy food and many laughs with these crazy coinquilini. Happy Birthday Barcelonina!

For now, that's it...I'm off...before I miss my train!

Day 104- Early Morning

No I haven't just discovered this, but it really is amazing how productive a day can be when you wake up a few hours earlier.  I wish I was a morning person. As in I wish I could willingly get up before 10 just because it's productive. I need to start trying. Sleep is so nice though, isn't it? Haha.

Anyway, it's 10:15, and after studying for a few hours, showering and miraculously spending more than 5 minutes doing my hair, I am off to give my Italian test. Now as far as school goes, the class is worth an almost insignificant amount of credits, and it was basically self taught...(which would technically speak of my skills as a teacher if I do well? ...my way of boosting my ego), but I really want to do well because it's probably the test that means the most to me personally. Learning Italian was really one of the biggest reasons to come...and I can finally say that I am starting to feel the tiniest bit trilingual...juuust a little. So, yes I want the validation of the grade. Which here is 30/30...so...

Wish me luck!

Day 102- Bliss Bliss Bliss

It has been over 100 days.

I was just out running along the Tevere River...and was absolutely overwhelmed with happiness. I realized how much I love it here, how I miss people, and I miss home, but that the new experiences that I'm living in the stunningly beautiful and perfectly special Italian world are filling me with utter bliss. It is something I cannot describe, because so many things are the same...I am not magically staying the same weight despite my intake of carbs and cheese, I am not entirely free of studying, I can't buy all the shoes in the windows...it has been taking me hours to fall asleep lately because I can't stop worrying about all the other things I always worry about...yet today, while I was running along the Tevere River, I couldn't have felt better.  And yes, I know about the endorphins, which I'm sure played a part in it all...but I don't care. It was honest, and real, all the happiness. 

And as I thought about this, I thought of why I'm so happy, and it's simple.  I realized that for me, there is nothing more important than the people that you surround yourself with. There is nothing more wonderful than getting to know people, than feeling the change from acquaintances to friends....than beginning to care about people and having them care about you. In light of of being short and sweet, I won't get into describing each and every character, but I will say that I am so so lucky to be surrounded by the people I am surrounded by right now.

Day 93

Well another week has gone by! Way too fast. I won't even get into the whole time flies philosophy because I know everyone knows it all too well.

So during this past week, I've been busy. The Notte dei Musei didn't end up happening because of a school bombing in South Italy...a girl was killed and officials thought the mafia might be involved. I have to admit, before coming here the whole mafia thing was very Hollywood to me. Something dangerous and glamorous, "la famiglia".  But here it is a sad reality, and unfortunately things like the bombing happen because of it...Hopefully, sometime soon, it will only be in the movies.

So we stayed home, but the day brought many things: I had my first ride on the back of a motorcycle in Rome. It was magical. Haha. Maybe not the typically imagined ride arms around a dreamy Italian boy, but I was happy to go with Maria to get some wine. (Yes, we are always drinking wine-why wouldn't we when it's this good?) Anyway, I coolly hung on to the back of the seat, wind in my face, as she zipped back and forth between cars to the store...and back at the house, with my helmet hair and bottles in hand, I was fully satisfied by my first Italian moto-experience.

Combine ingredients, knead, roll, fill, bake.

Then with Pasqui I learned to make a Crostata, which I quickly figured out is a sort of pie, but with equal amounts of crust and filling. The outside is a crumbly short crust pastry, and the filling was different jams in one, and Nutella in the other. Initially we were both "going to make the Crostatas", but it turned out I just watched, as Pasquina oh-so-precisely created the lovely dessert. Of course, I wrote down everything...it's a good thing they have Nutella in Chile.

Of course later that night we went out to eat pizza, I am happy to say at Est! Est! Est! again. This time the meal was complete with a variety of fried eats, including mozzarella, fiori di zuccha (zucchini blossoms), and cod, before we each downed our delectable pizzas. It had also been a while since I laughed so much until it hurt, so the night couldn't have ended better.

Then, the week began; I went on a small adventure to find the last book I have to read for English, did a few circles around the Termini neighborhood, eagerly went to finally buy a pair of shoes I had been watching for a long time, then let down because they didn't have them anymore...The week went on, I ran 5 kilometers and got really excited about it because I don't usually run that much; and also thought about how it's ironic that the most fit I've been in a looong time is while in Italy. Hmm. I had a revelation about my advances in my new language, when I realized I was counting sit ups in Italian. And when I was complimented on these advances by my lovely "coinquilini" (roommates). I went grocery shopping, looked for some things for a few recipes I wanted to try, found some, didn't find others...it rained yet again. And the week ended.

Giardino del Quirinale

Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore

Palazzo del Quirinale (Italian White House)

360 of Via delle Cuattro Fontane (fountain on each corner of the intersection)

And today was a particularly great day. You know those days, when once it's over you just kind of feel good and think "Great day"? I woke up a little earlier than usual and walked to the store for ingredients to try cooking a quiche, and came back with yes, eggs and cheese, but also shoes. Then, the zucchini quiche came out perfect. It was so easy so I know I can totally make it again, and everyone liked it. Points for me. After lunch, Marta, Valerio, Maria and I just sort of sat around eating Pecorino and fava beans, some olives, and talked (only in Italian now), and laughed and shared funny stories. And then we decided since it was such a beautiful day to go get some gelato (why is it that I can't just call it ice-cream here?) at the beach. And somehow it was suggested that I drive, so I did. Not so casual since people here are crazy drivers, but I was excited and no one died, so I'm good. Once in Ostia, we found a gelateria, chose our flavors, and walked over to the pier...

Valerio, Marta and I

Vale and Mary

and...for a taste of the moment:

Then the beach; this time I put my feet in the water. I'm happy that what Maria said was cold was definitely not for me...the water was nice; so mild and clear. I can't wait to go back soon with a bathing suit on! And although it's only actually spring, people are definitely ready for summer; the beach was crowded, everyone herding back home sandy and wet after a nice lazy day at the beach. Of course I also realized how in need I am of a tan, so I'll soon be invading Marta's space, laying out on her balcony this week. Thanks Martita :). Anyway, on the way back, there was a lot of traffic, but despite the slow inching along and monotonous stick and clutch-work, it was so nice out that I even enjoyed that. And the best part of everything, was when I came home and walked into my room with the window open, this overwhelming smell of lushness and freshness and warmth totally hit me. Suuummer. It always happens to me at some point; where all of a sudden you recognize that smell...and you realize it means sun, fruit, color, vacation...it made me smile. So now I'm ready too.

I went back to the kitchen and Valerio was already making dinner, which the four of us had on the balcony. What else could I really have hoped for when I woke up today? Good weather, good food, amazing company. If nothing else, I want a life filled with that.

Day 83- Centro Storico

Well I'm a lot happier than the other day. Yesterday I was determined to validate my understanding of the Italian language to myself so I went out on a mission. For Parmesano, Prosciutto di Parma and VINO. So I went to a nearby "salumeria" and asked the stout white-haired man behind the counter for the goods.  The conversation went better than I thought.  He understood everything I said, promptly gave me a variety of things to try before handing over my choices.  I even got a compliment for my Italian. I did have to point silently to the olives though...I still can't remember the word for them. Anyway. After that I walked around for a while...I have to do an entry on my neighborhood sometime, which I am so happy to live in, by the way. I'm hoping how much I spent and that I brought home food doesn't have everything to do with the fact that I was in a better mood...?

Also, I forgot to mention that I got a 27/30 on my Spanish Lit exam so...it's a good start! The whole thing was nerve wrecking though, the teacher totally grilled me on some topics. But anyway I'm not complaining. So long as I do at least that good in English and Italian. I have to study.

Speaking of which, I love how now that I'll have more time because my classes and exams will be over, ironically so will all of my shows...Oops. I hear Grey's Anatomy's finale was a tearjerker...but I'm waiting for Maria to see it. I hope she doesn't mind me bawling, because there's a 95% chance I will. Oh my.

One of the purchases I made yesterday was of a new travel guide for Rome. Yup. Lonely Planet: Encounter Rome. So today, after running I was ready to put it to good use. At 12, I left the house and took the bus/tram trip to Piazza Navona where I met Daniela.  And after circling around a few blocks looking for the recommended Panini place, Lo Zozzono, we had lunch. Basically, we wandered around Centro Storico, getting lost (like the book said we should!), until making our way to the Jewish Ghetto.  Here, surrounded by kosher bakeries and restaurants, we found the archeological site of the Teatro di Marcello and Portico d'Ottavia. And let me tell you this is why I love Rome.  You think you know what it's all about.  You've seen the movies, you've seen the post cards.  You know what the Colosseum looks like. And I've lived here for almost three months now (woaa...) and I go past some of the most amazing landmarks without being dazed.  I walk along the same streets thinking I've seen most of it.  No way.  Rome is a city of discovery.  It's about being in the same place a hundred times and still finding new things.  Granted, this was the first time at this site, but I had driven and walked past it on my way to something else, many times. But now, I got up close, and it has to be one of my favorite historical sites so far. In short:

Portico d'Ottivia

The 1st-century BC Portico d'Ottavia was first a temple complex, built by Augustus in the name of his sister, Octavia.  After various fires over the years, it was restored using foreign marble and was adorned by many fresco paintings and now famous works of art. In the medieval era, the area and structure was later used as a fish market, which lasted up to the end of the 1800's. This role is remembered by the name of the annexed church, partly formed by its columns, Chiesa di Sant'Angelo in Pescheria.

Corridor of Teatro di Marcello

The "dramatic fusion of eras" (as Lonely Planet puts it) continues at the Teatro di Marcello, where a Renaissance palace by Baldassare Peruzzi is incorporated onto the ruins of the theater, that had also been built by Augustus, in the last years of the Roman Republic.

So, nothing crazy or anything...but as I was reading about it, the architectural diversity became completely obvious and I could imagine what each era was like. First, the Portico d'Ottavia being a huge Roman Building, where important people in their togas would channel in and out of; then a fish Market, where Romans would compare the size of their fish and promote their catch on big slabs of marble taken from the monument itself; then part of a holy entrance to a church. You could just see centuries going by before your eyes like some sort of history movie. I just loved how each part corresponding to another time period was molded together to make a new structure...like they melted into each other over time. You look at the theater, and there is clearly a contrast in materials and styles, but there's also something about it that looks so natural.

Teatro di Marcello

We took it all in for a few minutes, then walked through the streets of "Il Ghetto" for a gelato, to finalize our outing of the day. So as of now, I am thoroughly satisfied with another day here, overseas. Tomorrow is La Notte dei Musei (Museum Night), which means that museums all over Rome are open for the night, for free. So we'll see what that brings. And Sunday, the plan is to go get lunch in Orvieto, a town near Umbria a ways off from Rome.  Marta went and had some sort of stuffed pasta dish with melted pecorino cheese at a trattoria, and I hear they have rabbit too, so that's enough to convince me.

After a long day, it's off to bed for me...

Day 81- A Little Frustrated

I need to vent.

It is lovely and wonderful and all learning a new language....but god knows today, I am SICK of being misunderstood. I am tired of having to repeat myself over and over again and making other people repeat themselves. I am tired of having to think about what I want to say for more than five seconds. And then, even if I manage to get the words out, I think about it and it never comes out how I was originally thinking of it anyway.

And it goes deeper. Honestly this is something I have thought about a lot, living in Chile. I mean no matter how good you get at a second language, it's never really the same. I speak Spanish fluently, but there are certain things I'm not sure how to say, some ways of expressing myself that changes everything once I open my mouth. Not because I don't know the vocabulary, or the grammar. It's the rhetoric of it all. It's how you communicate a specific thing in a specific situation.  In the end, what you say and that way you say it, sort of makes you who you are...it's a big part of how the world views you. So I've always felt, there's the Nasha in Chile, and there's the one in the States. Obviously, the essence is the same...but somehow my personality changes in some ways. I'm more funny in English. I can tell stories better.  In some ways I've always thought that if you don't know the English-speaking me, you don't truly know me.

And now. I'm not in either countries and I can't speak either languages. Now I'm just a small part of Nasha. I'm Na. That couldn't even be a nickname.  It's so frustrating. Because no one knows who I really am, what I'm really like...how I really talk. Today it feels like I'm just the confused girl that always says "What?". I was just in the kitchen trying to explain that today wasn't my day...that I'm kind of fed up with everything,.and I couldn't even explain that. And then they thought I meant something else and I barely made it out of the room without bursting into tears while washing the dishes. And thank god I did because if I hadn't...HOW would I explain it. Ughh.

I read this quote in the book I'm reading for class, and I couldn't have related more to the character in the book: "He has not mastered London.  If there is any mastering going on, it is London mastering him." (Youth-J.M. Coetzee). Yes. I am definitely getting my butt kicked by Rome and it's language.

So anyway. Today is not my day. I hate feeling incompetent, which, by the way, only originally thought of because I had to be around a particularly incompetent person. Ironic. I have to admit the venting has distracted me.  And I did make myself a really good dinner...ricotta and spinach ravioli with some mozzarella, broiled eggplant, olive oil and Parmesan cheese. Pasta never fails. Now I'm in bed ready for my black and white movie- Roman Holiday. Maybe I'll understand some of the Italian in it and feel better. Anyone interested?

I've never seen a trailer this old before...they were kinda great huh, with the regal voice and all? :)